RESTORATIVE ASIAN SOUP

I don’t quite know how it happened, but somehow I got a cold in the middle of August. While San Francisco isn’t exactly known for it’s sweltering summers, I found myself craving something that would warm me to the core and nourish me at the same time. Recalling the virtues of chicken noodle soup, I figured I would try my hand at creating a chinese-style broth infused with the healing qualities of garlic and ginger. So, with a batch of homemade chicken stock in the freezer and a handful of asian ingredients and cooking techniques, I set out to create a soup that would have me feeling healthy again in no time.
Drawing inspiration from Barbara Tropp’s iconic, China Moon Cookbook, I began by making a simple “infusion” that would serve as the backbone of my soup. The long, slow simmering of copious amounts of roasted garlic and other aromatics imbue the broth with a rich and savory quality while the basil stems thrown in during the last fifteen minutes of simmering add a beautiful floral finish. Once infused, the broth is good enough to eat by itself, but I was feeling a bit adventurous, and wanted to add some protein and vitamins. Using a technique called “velveting,” the marinated chicken breast is only partially cooked in simmering water before it is drained and finished in the soup. The pieces end up being juicy, extremely tender and pleasantly salty. Finished with some shiitake mushrooms, baby bok choy, spinach and a good pinch of Szechwan pepper-salt, I had a soup that is as delicious as it is healthy.

Restorative Asian Soup

Recipe and techniques adapted from Barbara Tropp’s, China Moon Cookbook
As suggested by Ms. Tropp, be patient while infusing the oil with the aromatics before adding the chicken stock. It is during this step that the bulk of the flavor for the broth is developed; it should not be rushed. When velveting the chicken, have another pot of water on the stove bubbling away at a strong simmer before water blanching the pieces. Marinating the chicken for a couple of hours is great, but overnight will yield especially flavorful and tender results.

INGREDIENTS

For the Broth Infusion

• 1 1/2 large, rock-hard heads of garlic, wrapped in tin foil and roasted at 375°F for 30-40 minutes
• 1 tablespoon corn or peanut oil
• 1/2 a small onion, thinly sliced
• 1/2 small green serrano chili
• 4 quarter-size coins of fresh ginger, smashed
• 6 cups of unsalted chicken broth, preferably homemade
• 1/2 stalk fresh lemongrass or small handful of basil stems
• Kosher salt
• Roasted Szechwan pepper-salt (recipe follows)
• 2 small baby bok choy, sliced in quarters
• 3/4 cup shitake mushrooms, sliced
• 1 large handful of baby spinach leaves

For the Velvet Marinated Chicken

• 1 large egg white
• 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 3/4 lb. fresh chicken breast, skinned, boned and cut into strips 1 x 1/4 inch thick slices

METHOD

1. Prepare the chicken: Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl and toss to coat the chicken. Allow at least two hours or overnight to marinate.
2. Prepare the infusion: Add the oil to the bottom of a non-aluminum, heavy stockpot and swirl to glaze the bottom of the pot. Heat over low heat until a slice of onion sizzles gently upon contact with the oil. Add the onion slices, chili, ginger and roasted garlic, stirring to combine. Cover the pot and, keeping the heat very low, sweat the vegetables until the onion turns translucent and the mixture is soupy, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent the vegetables from sticking to the bottom of the pot. This sweating step is crucial to the success of the flavors, so don’t rush it.
3. Add the chicken stock, cover the pot, and raise the heat to moderate. Bring the mixture to a near boil and adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer for 1 hour. Add the lemongrass or basil stems during the last 15 minutes.
4. Remove the pot from heat. Let the infusion steep, uncovered and undisturbed, for 1 hour.
5. Strain the infusion through a fine-mesh sieve lined with layers of dampened cheesecloth and spoon off any excess oil lingering on the surface.
6. Season the infusion with enough kosher salt to bring out the garlic flavor, then end with roasted pepper-salt to taste.
7. Just prior to serving, place a small saucepan of water to simmer. Add the chicken pieces stir until the outside is white, about 30 to 40 seconds. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon and set aside.
8. Meanwhile, add the vegetables to the hot broth. Allow to simmer until vegetables are tender. Add the partially cooked chicken and cook through, about five minutes.

Makes two large bowls

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Throw grated cheddar cheese, sour cream, sliced green onions, and cilantro over a bowl of Stagg Chili and you have a satisfying bowl of chili.  Throw those same condiments over a warm bowl of this hearty lamb and chorizo chili, and you have an epic winter meal.  But I’ll warn you, this chili isn’t for the faint of heart.  This is some rich, earthy fare the likes of which are seldom explored by the typical American diner.  In my mind, I believe this is chili the way chili was always meant to taste.
Thick, heavily spiced and slightly gamey, this is cold weather, stick-to-your-ribs food at it best, making it not only great for the winter season, but also perfect Super Bowl grub if you’re looking to feed a group with a big appetite. I’d go so far as to call this real man food, if my girlfriend weren’t so quick to remind me that women love chili, too.
Garnishes are key here; they lighten the rich flavors while enhancing the chili’s meatiness, so set out a spread of shredded cheese, chopped onion, cilantro and sour cream and let your guests go nuts.

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Adapted from Bon Appétit
Use fresh, Mexican chorizo  and not the dry-cured Spanish variety in this recipe.  After sautéing and draining the chorizo, be sure to return the fat (drippings) to the pan from the top of any juices that might have collected.  This flavorful, bright red fat will be the medium in which you will fry your aromatics.  This chili can be made as far as three days in advance of service and will definitely benefit from an overnight “curing” in the refrigerator after it’s been simmered.  When reheating, place the chili in a medium saucepan and bring back to a bare simmer, covered, and stirring often over low heat.  Adjust with more stock or water if the chili seems dry and check again for seasoning. In fact, because not all chorizo sausage is seasoned the same way, taste throughout the cooking process and tailor the chili to your own taste.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 1/4 cups chicken broth
• 3 ounces dried ancho chilies (about 5 large), stemmed, seeded, torn into pieces
• 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 1/2 lbs pork chroizo, casings removed
• 2 cups red onion, coarsely chopped
• 10 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
• 1 can (15-ounces) canned pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Grated cheddar or jack cheese
• Thinly sliced green onions
• Sour cream or Mexican crema
• Cilantro leaves
• Pickled jalapenos, diced

METHOD:

1. Combine first three ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat until chilies soften, about 12 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender, in batches if need be.  Strain the chile mixture through a fine mesh sieve, pressing on the solids, and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, cook chorizo in a large pot over medium-high heat until drippings come to a simmer. Transfer to a strainer set over a bowl and let drain for 10 minutes.
3. Return 1/4 cup of the chorizo drippings to the same pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano and cumin and saute until onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
4. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper and add to the pot. Sauté just until the lamb is no longer pink on the outside. Add chili puree and drained chorizo. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to a simmer and allow to cook for 1 hour.
5. Add drained pinto beans and simmer uncovered until liquid thickens, about 15 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grated cheddar, sour cream, green onions, cilantro and diced pickled jalapenos as desired.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, depending on the appetite of your crowd