PORK STIR-FRY WITH CASHEWS, LIME AND MINT

Learning to stir-fry properly has taken me a very long time. In fact, I still have a ways to go. What is seemingly the easiest and quickest way to cook is in fact quite difficult to do well.  We’ve all done it at one point or another: soggy, partially cooked vegetables, under-browned meat with no flavor and heavy, copious amounts of grease. No, stir-frying isn’t as easy as Martin Yan and Rachel Ray might have us believe after all. But if you can remember a few simple rules, you can see results on par with some of the best asian takeout spots in your neighborhood.
Simply put, you need to bring the heat. From the second the first item goes into your pan to last moment before it’s plated, you must have your wok or skillet on the largest burner cranked-up as high as it will go. While this might seem intimidating at first, keep in mind that this intense heat will render the most authentic end-product; it’s the closest we home cooks can get to the insane amount of heat created by a 300,000 BTU wok station at a Chinese restaurant.
This recipe is a great one to get your feet wet with high heat stir-frying. Once your prep work is done, this meal comes together in a matter of minutes. Delicious, crispy pork blends perfectly with the crunch of cashews and a floral hit of mint and basil. Salty fish sauce and the bright tang of lime juice and zest elevate the dish beyond your humdrum takeout order, adding a taste that is both pleasant and unique.

Pork Stir-Fry with Cashews, Lime and Mint

Adapted from Nigel Slater’s, Real Food
Remember to keep your pan HOT during the cooking of this dish. It is important to allow the oil in the pan to just reach the point where is begins to smoke before adding your pork. Also, it helps to have your prepped ingredients at room temperature as this will help keep the pan from losing too much heat with addition. Finally, don’t be afraid to brown the pork in two batches if your pan isn’t large enough to accommodate all of the meat. This will ensure that it caramelizes quickly without losing too much moisture in the process.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb pork tenderloin
  
• 6 tablespoons peanut oil
• 3 ounces cashew nuts or peanuts
• 4 spring onions, finely chopped
• 4 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely grated
• 4 small, hot red chiles, finely chopped
• zest and juice of 2 big, juicy limes
• 2 tablespoons nam pla (thai fish sauce)
• a handful of mint leaves chopped
• a handful of basil leaves, torn into shreds

METHOD

Slice the pork tenderloin into pieces about as thick as your little finger, then cut them again into short strips. Get a wok or large sauté pan really hot over a high flame and pour 3 tablespoons of the oil into it. Once the oil is really hot — you will probably hear it crackle — add the pork and cook for three or four minutes, until it is golden brown in patches. Stir it from time to time, otherwise it will not brown properly.
Meanwhile, chop the nuts quite finely. When the meat is browned and sizzling, remove it to a warm plate with any cooking juices, return the wok to the heat and, when it is really hot and smoking, add the remaining oil.  As soon as it is hot, add the spring onions, garlic, ginger and chillies and fry, stirring almost constantly for a minute or two.
Add in the nuts and stir-fry for a minute or two, then return the meat and any juices to the pan. Stir in the lime zest and juice and the fish sauce and fry for two minutes, then stir in the herbs. Serve immediately.
Serves 2 very hungry people or 4 with other courses

FALAFEL WITH TAHINI SAUCE

Looking for good falafel in San Francisco can leave one feeling like Goldilocks.  In a town with so few options to choose from, compared to a city like New York, finding real, quality falafel around here can be hit or miss.  Oftentimes too dry, frequently too large and almost always too dense, my misadventures in the quest for the perfect fritter have lead me to create a recipe that produces perfectly light, moist and delicious falafel every time.  In Goldilocks’ words, these are just right.
Dehydrated chickpeas are soaked overnight and ground with onions, parsley and garlic then seasoned with aromatic spices before being fried to a rich, golden brown. Top with a drizzle of garlic and lemon spiked tahini sauce and you have a version that I’d bet rivals some of the best you’ve ever bought.

FALAFEL

I like to use a meat grinder set with the finest disk to process my garbanzo beans.  If you don’t have one yourself, don’t despair, as falafel made in the food processor will be equally delicious.  Whichever route you choose, make sure to season your mix well and taste it before frying — there is nothing worse than a bland falafel.  Another crucial aspect of producing tender, airy falafel comes from the rolling process.  No matter what you do, DO NOT press and compact the mixture into a tight ball.  Instead, take some of the mixture and apply just enough pressure to have it hold its shape.  It takes a bit of practice at first, but you will be rewarded with beautiful, light falafel in the end.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lb dried chick peas (garbanzo beans), soaked in water overnight
• 2 red or Spanish onions, coarsely chopped
  
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed
  
• 1/2 large bunch of parsley
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons sesame seeds
  
• Kosher salt & cayenne pepper to taste
  
• Canola or vegetable oil for frying
  

METHOD:

1. Drain the chick peas from their soaking liquid and pass them, along with the onion, garlic, parsley, through the finest holes of a meat grinder. Alternatively, place the same ingredients into the bowl of food processor and pulse until the texture is that of a coarse, moist meal.
2. Add the cumin, coriander, sesame seeds, cayenne and salt to the ground mixture. Stir to distribute the spice and allow the mixture to rest for at least a 1/2 hour at room temperature.  Taste a small amount for seasoning and adjust accordingly.
3. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.  With slightly moistened hands, take walnut-sized lumps (about 2 tablespoons) of the rested falafel mixture from the bowl and gently roll into flat, round shapes, about 1 1/2 inches in diameter.  Place the falafel on the lined sheet pan and repeat with the remaining mix.  Allow rolled falafel balls to rest at least another 15 minutes at room temperature before frying.
4. Pour oil into a 4-qt. Dutch oven to a depth of 2″ and heat over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer registers 350˚. Working in batches, fry the falafel until they are a dark, rich brown color, about 4-5 minutes.  Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.  Repeat with remaining falafel.
5. Serve the falafel warm or at room temperature along with tahini sauce for drizzling.

Makes about 2 dozen falafel

TAHINI SAUCE

Adapted from Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food

INGREDIENTS:

• 1-3 cloves garlic, to taste
• Kosher salt, to taste
• Juice of 2 1/2 lemons, or more to taste
• 1/4 pint tahini paste
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
  

METHOD:

1. Crush the garlic with salt to for a paste. Mix it with a little of the lemon juice in a large bowl. Add the tahini paste and mix well.
2. Add the remaining lemon juice and enough cold water to achieve a thick, smooth cream, beating vigorously.
3. Season with salt and cumin; taste and add more lemon juice, garlic or salt until the flavor is fairly strong and tart. Add a few more drops water if too thick. It should be just pourable.

HAM & CHEESE BREAKFAST SANDWICH

With a surplus of homemade English muffins lying around just waiting to go stale, I started to wonder if there was another use for them that I’d yet to consider.  Enter the breakfast sandwich.  Like spicy fried chicken sandwiches, I ate my fair-share of these hand-held wonders growing up.  Today, sadly, I don’t make it down to the old Micky-D’s as often as I once did.  Not as keen on eating battery-farmed eggs and sub-par pork products, I’ve been at a loss in my search for a breakfast sandwich made with good, quality ingredients.  Believe me, I’ve checked.  So, armed with a fresh package of organic American cheese slices, a carton of pasture-raised, organic eggs and some preservative-free Canadian bacon, I set out to recreate a more wholesome version of the iconic breakfast sandwich of my youth.
I’m not much of a sweets guy when it comes to breakfast.  In fact, I’ll pass on the french toast, Belgium waffles and pancakes just about any day of the week.  Instead, this is what I crave.  A warm, lightly toasted English muffin slathered with butter, topped with gooey cheese, salty meat and a perfectly seasoned egg.  It might not be brain-food, but with one of these in your belly, I guarantee you’ll be well-equipped to deal with any of the day’s challenges.  So, if you’re like me and love a great breakfast sandwich but are less than inclined to patronize the local fast-food mega-chain, do what I did and make one for yourself.  I think it goes without saying that they were OUTSTANDING.  I’d like to think of them as another perfect example of a fast-food favorite cooked with slow food sensibilities.

BREAKFAST SANDWICH

If you’re any kind of fan of the classic Egg McMuffin, odds are you don’t need a recipe to put one of these together.  Cheese, egg and Canadian bacon is a pretty straightforward concept, but if you really want to reproduce a sandwich that is true to the original you are going to have to create one of those unnaturally perfect egg discs.  I played around with a couple of different techniques and eventually settled on cooking the egg in a ring mold set inside of a skillet over low heat.  Another option would be to slowly bake the eggs inside the cups of a silicone muffin mold.  That being said, I also made one using soft-scrambled eggs and another with a soft-centered, over-easy egg that were each outstanding, so feel free to break from convention.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 extra-large, organic eggs from pasture raised chickens
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter or nonstick cooking spray
  
• 4 English muffins, fork split
• 4 slices organic American cheese
• 4 slices Canadian bacon
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  

METHOD:

1. Warm 2 tablespoons of the butter in large, nonstick skillet over low heat.  Rub the inside of a 3-inch ring mold or cookie cutter with some butter or spray liberally with nonstick cooking spray.  Repeat with the remaining molds and set them inside of the skillet to heat up slightly.
2. Carefully crack each of the four eggs into their own small bowls or teacups.  Taking your time, and ensuring that each ring mold is sitting squarely on the base of the skillet, pour the eggs from their cups into the ring molds.  Season the eggs to taste with salt and black pepper.  Now is the time to break the yoke if you want.  Cover the skillet and allow the eggs to gently cook until they have set and are no longer runny, about 8-10 minutes.
   
3. Meanwhile, lightly toast the English muffins and warm the Canadian bacon in another small skillet set over medium heat.
4. When the eggs are cooked, carefully remove the molds from the skillet.  If the eggs do not release on their own from the molds, run a small paring knife along the base of the mold to free any stuck edges.
5. Compose the sandwiches by lightly buttering each half of the English muffins then layer a slice of American cheese, then the egg followed by a slice of the warmed Canadian bacon.  Top with the other half of the muffin and serve immediately.
   

Makes 4 sandwiches

MEATLOAF SANDWICH

Like roast beef, I’ll sometime make meatloaf just for the sandwiches.  Funny, considering I wouldn’t touch them as a kid.  I’m not sure if it was a texture thing or the idea of eating a ‘loaf’ in between two pieces of bread that threw me off, but whatever it was, I made sure they never ended up in my lunch bag.  These days, however, leftover meatloaf is a godsend and something that rarely lasts more than a day in our fridge. You see, as good as meatloaf is straight from the oven, something magical seems to take place after an overnight rest in the cold.  Not only do the savory flavors concentrate, but the consistency of the loaf changes as well, firming up a bit for easy sandwich slicing.  Served warm or cold, a good meatloaf sandwich seems to hit all the right notes.  You don’t need a recipe for a meatloaf sandwich, just the inspiration to make one.

MEATLOAF SANDWICH

In my book, meatloaf sandwiches are good served warm or cold.  Find yourself some good quality bread, a ripe tomato and your favorite condiments and start stacking.  The build I’ve described below is about as simple and delicious as you can get.  Even so, don’t be afraid to throw on some pickled onions, peppers or any other toppings that suit your fancy. Come to think of it, they’re damn good with just a squirt or two of ketchup.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 slices, thick-cut artisan or rye bread, lightly toasted
• 4 slices leftover meatloaf, sliced into 1-inch thick slices
• 2 tablespoons dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons good mayonnaise
• 4 slices tomato
• 4 leaves butter or leaf lettuce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  

METHOD:

1. If you are planning on eating a warm sandwich, heat the meatloaf wrapped in foil in a low oven until hot.
2. Assemble the sandwiches on a clean cutting board, starting by spreading on the dijon and mayonnaise, followed by lettuce, meatloaf and tomato.  Serve at once or wrap in foil to allow the flavors and sauce to soak into the bread a little.
   

Makes 2 large sandwiches

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

These lettuce cups might be a little too P.F. Chang’s for some people, but this is a recipe I’ve come back to time and time again for quick, delicious results.  Big on flavor and a cinch to prepare, ginger pork lettuce cups are an amazing start to an Asian-inspired menu and have even taken center stage on more than one dinner occasion.
Here, unctuous ground pork and umami-rich oyster sauce mingle with crunchy water chestnuts and finely diced red bell pepper to create a filling that is as appealing to the eye as it is to the palate. The contrast in texture between the hot, salty filling and the cool, crispy lettuce is a combination that has me coming back to this recipe over and over again.  The best part? Once you have all the necessary ingredients in your pantry, whipping this dish up on a weeknight is as easy as it gets.

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

Adapted from the August, 2006 issue of Food & Wine Magazine
When making the ginger pork mixture, I like to let it sit out for a few minutes to allow the flavors to marry and the ingredients to come up to room temperature. When stir-frying the pork, it’s important to use as high of heat as your stove will allow.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly and break up any large lumps.  The goal is to drive away as much moisture from the pork as possible so that it will have a chance to caramelize in the fat.  There is something especially appealing about eating the pork in lettuce leaves but it would also be delicious served over rice.  Minced chicken or turkey would also make fine substitutes for the pork in this dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound ground pork
• 1  medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 serrano or thai bird chile, finely minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
• 1 tablespoon Thai sweet chili sauce
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut or grapeseed oil
• 1 8-ounce can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 24 Boston lettuce leaves

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork with the diced red bell pepper, minced chile, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chile sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the peanut or grapeseed oil.  Set the bowl aside and allow the flavors to come together for at least 15 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat.  Allow the skillet to get screaming hot before adding in the pork.  Stir-fry the mixture over high heat, breaking it up, until the pork is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the oyster sauce, diced water chestnuts, scallions and cilantro and remove from heat.
3. Serve the ginger pork in a bowl along with a stack of the lettuce leaves on a plate.  To eat, spoon some of the ginger pork onto a lettuce leaf, roll up and enjoy.
   

Makes enough for 6 appetizer servings or dinner for two

POPPY SEED DRESSING

After a weekend of less-than-healthy eating — the Super Bowl has that effect — I figured it was high-time to post one of my all-time favorite salad dressings.  In fact, this dressing is so special that I decided to give it its own post (tune in tomorrow for the perfect salad).  While Italian, ranch and blue cheese might hold the throne as America’s favorite salad dressings, I’d like to introduce you to what you’ve been missing out on — poppy seed dressing.  I know, I know.  Poppy seeds? While you might be wondering how poppy seeds could still be relevant, especially in a salad dressing, consider the words of Kay Rentschler from her New York Times article on this misunderstood spice, “Ultimately, it is as a finely granular, dusky backdrop that poppy seeds make their point best, a point well articulated in the presence of lemon or orange peel, the smoke of sweet spices or the fragrant notes of honey or orange flower oil.”  Sounds like they might find a nice home in a unique sweet and sour salad dressing, doesn’t it?
Romanticism aside, I’ve eaten this dressing since I was a boy, on salads as varied as tender red leaf lettuce with grapefruit segments and blue cheese to sturdy spinach leaves with strawberries and feta — you really can’t go wrong.  In fact, the beauty of this dressing is its ability to compliment ripe fruit regardless of season.  Wintertime salad? Use crisp apples or tangy orange segments for a refreshing contrast to this dressing’s sweet notes.  Have pears from the farmers market lying around?  Toss them in as a sweet foil to the same tangy dressing.
As tasty as it is beautiful, this one-of-a-kind dressing is worth making for the work week when you’re in the need of something light and refreshing. Whip up a batch in the blender, throw it in your fridge and eat like a king for the week.

POPPY SEED SALAD DRESSING

Adapted from San Francisco à la Carte
If you don’t have a blender, this dressing can be made the old-fashioned way, by emulsifying the dressing with a good wire whisk.  I like to use apple cider vinegar, but if you don’t have any on-hand, feel free to use white wine or distilled vinegar.  When it comes time to finely grate the red onion, use the small holes on a box grater for best results and flavor.  When adding the oil, make sure you pour it in slowly to achieve a nice, even emulsion.  This is a resilient salad dressing that will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator if stored correctly, but don’t be afraid to halve the recipe if you wish; it still turns out wonderfully.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoons mustard (I use Coleman’s)
• 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons Kosher
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup canola or grapeseed oil
• 1/3 cup apple cider or white wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup finely grated red onion
• 1 1/2 teaspoon poppy seeds

METHOD:

1. Pour the olive and canola oil into a measuring cup and set aside.
2. Add the sugar, mustard, red onion and salt to the jar of a blender.  Pour in the vinegar and blend on high until the sugar has thoroughly dissolved.
3. With the motor still running, remove the lid from the blender and pour in the combined oils in a steady stream until emulsified.
4. Pour the dressing into a jar, add the poppy seeds and shake or stir the dressing to combine.  Seal the jar tightly and refrigerate until use.

Makes about 2 cups

SPINACH, FETA & KALAMATA OLIVE STROMBOLI

I should start by saying that I’d never actually eaten stromboli before making this recipe.  After seeing a rendition on TV, I set out to make one in the style of Stuff Yer Face in New Brunswick, New Jersey.  Where most versions seem to be rolled into a pinwheel-like log, this version is more like a burrito — er, Hot Pocket.  Not quite a pizza, almost like a calzone, stromboli seemed like a perfect hand-held version of one of my favorite foods.  Then again, I’m the kind of person who likes to fold my pizza slices in half before biting into them — there’s just something so satisfying about biting into gooey cheese surrounded by crisp then chewy dough.
Sure enough, the ‘boli satisfied this particular craving. Cheesy, salty with tart feta cheese, chalk full of wilted spinach and steaming hot, if you even kind of like pizza (and who doesn’t?), then you’re going to like biting into one of these. Plus, if you have the dough on hand already, they’re easy enough to put together for a lazy weeknight dinner.

SPINACH, FETA & KALAMATA OLIVE STROMBOLI

This recipe uses a your classic Italian-American, New York-style pizza sauce.  If you were hoping for a light, San Marzano sauce, look elsewhere because this one is packed with basil, oregano and tomato paste.  Even so, choose your tomatoes and paste wisely as each brand can vary dramatically in terms of acidity and sweetness so use your taste buds and adjust for the sauce for balance after it’s been processed.  A six ounce can of paste might seem like a lot, but keep in mind that this is a thick, sweet pizzeria-style sauce.  A good melting cheese is key for these stromboli.  Look to use a low-moisture mozzarella or a blend of mozzarella, provolone, fontina or Parmesan for a fantastic final dish.  If kalamata olives, feta cheese and spinach aren’t your thing, go with hand-sliced, quality pepperoni from an Italian deli for an upscale riff on the classic Hot Pocket.

INGREDIENTS

For the Pizza Sauce:

• 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes
• 1 6-ounce can tomato paste
• 1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped basil or 2 teaspoons dried
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt
• Red wine vinegar to taste
• Olive oil, for brushing
  

For the Stromboli

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, set out at room temperature
• 1 – 1 1/2 cups, sauce
• 4 cups loosely packed spinach leaves
• 4 cups mozzarella cheese, or other good melting cheese
• 1 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved if desired
• 1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled

METHOD:

1. Make the sauce: Place all of the sauce ingredients in a food processor and blend until well incorporated. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt, sugar or vinegar to balance the flavor. Set aside.
2. Assemble the Stromboli: Preheat a pizza stone in a 500° oven for at least 1/2 hour. Divide the dough into 4 equal-sized pieces, roll them each into tight balls and allow them to rest at room temperature while the oven heats.
3. Working on a well floured surface and using a rolling pin, roll each dough ball into a 1/8-inch thick, 12×6-inch oblong oval shape.  Spread 1/4 cup of the pizza sauce into the center of each dough round and top with 1 cup of spinach leaves, 1 cup of the mozzarella, 1/4 cup of kalamata cheese and a couple of tablespoons of crumbled feta cheese.  Working as if you were rolling up a burrito, stretch the dough a bit towards the center of the stromboli and wrap the edge closest to you around the filling and roll the whole thing up like a log — pinch the seam firmly to ensure a good seal.  Lightly score the top of each stromboli to allow them to vent slightly during the baking process.
4. Brush the stromboli with olive oil and bake them directly on the pizza stone until golden brown, about 5-7 minutes.  Remove them with a pizza peel and allow to rest for about 5 minutes before going in.

Makes 4 Stromboli