PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO

Mention potatoes on pizza and you’ll get one of two responses. From the folks who’ve tried it, you can expect an enthusiastic thumbs up. From everyonce else: a resounding “huh?” That’s the thing about pizza with potato – it sounds strange, until you try it, and then you just get it.
Tasting the ‘You Say Potato’ slice for the first time at Escape from New York Pizza on Haight Street in San Francisco was this moment for me.  Still in high school at the time, far out pizza toppings went about far as bacon and clams as in my Dad’s favorite New Haven-style pie from Pepe’s in New Haven, Connecticut.  A diehard pepperoni fan, I was blown away by the idea of putting a potato on a pizza.  Actually I probably wouldn’t have tried it had my vegetarian buddy not touted it as being “the best” slice of pizza he’d ever eaten.  He was right. Tender yet toothsome potatoes and savory whole-roasted garlic cloves come together in a one of a kind pesto pizza experience.
Over a decade later, I finally got around to trying it at home.  Don’t wait as long as I did; add this unbeatable flavor combination to your pizza-making repertoire now.  Then when someone mentions potatoes on a pizza, you’ll know.

PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO

Inspired by the You Say Potato Slice at Escape from New York Pizza, San Francisco

As the addition of potatoes are what really sets this pizza apart, it is important to make sure they are cooked and seasoned properly before they go on top of the pie.  To ensure that the potatoes are cooked all the way through when the pizza comes out of the oven, I blanch them in boiling water, just until they lose their crunch.  After draining them off, toss them them with a bit of leftover oil from the roasted garlic, sprinkle with herbs and a bit of salt and they’ll be ready to shine. By the way, making this a second time I added in crumbled bacon I had lying around and it was excellent; I highly recommend it to my pork-loving comrades.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
• About 1 cup homemade pesto (or store-bought)
• 2-3 cups grated mozzarella/provolone cheese
• 1 cup roasted or confit garlic cloves (recipe below)
• 4 red skinned potatoes, very thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Crushed red pepper flakes

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half an hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, blanch the potato slices in boiling water until just cooked through, anywhere between 1 – 2 minutes.  Drain and allow to cool slightly before drying the slices with paper towels and coating them with a touch of olive oil, a pinch of Italian seasoning and kosher salt.
4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
5. Using a large spoon, spread an even layer of the pesto onto the dough and carefully spread it to within 1/2-inch of the edge, being careful to leave a sauce free edge.  Top with an even layer of the grated mozzarella/provolone cheese followed by slices of parboiled potatoes and roasted garlic cloves.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella, season with salt to taste and a pinch of red pepper flakes.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of olive oil (or leftover garlic) oil to promote browning.
6. Carefully slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling and just beginning to brown, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove the pizza from the oven and allow it to rest for a few minutes before slicing.

Makes enough for 2 pizzas

Roasted or Confit Garlic

In this recipe I like to confit the garlic cloves as opposed to roast them whole in an effort maintain the integrity of the garlic.  If you have some roasted garlic cloves laying around or prefer to roast a head of garlic wrapped in foil, feel free to do that instead.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 or 2 head of garlic, broken down into individual cloves and peeled
• Olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 300.  Add the peeled garlic cloves to a small saucepan and pour in olive oil until just barely covered.  Add a pinch of Italian seasoning and Kosher salt and roast in the oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until golden brown and soft.  Remove the saucepan from the oven and allow the garlic confit to cool.  Remove garlic cloves and store infused oil in the fridge for up to a week for another dishes.

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP

I usually do the cooking in my house, but on a recent trip to the farmers market, my girlfriend stumbled upon a vendor selling what looked to be the last of this season’s tomatoes and was instantly inspired to make this soup. A little overripe, she decided that the still beautiful specimens would taste especially good after roasting in the oven to concentrate their flavor.  Now, I myself am not the biggest tomato soup fan, but I was blown away at how delicious and flavorful the end product became. Somewhere between a tomato bisque and an earthy, slow-cooked tomato sauce, this soup had me sopping up the leftovers from the pot with a piece of toasted sourdough. Perfectly seasoned and especially comforting on a foggy San Francisco evening, my place in the kitchen might be in jeopardy if my girlfriend continues to turn out such satisfying fare.

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP

When roasting the tomatoes and bell peppers keep in mind that you want them to both soften and take on a bit of color. Once the tomatoes were in the pot, Lauren used a spatula to scrape in the residual carmelized bits from the sheet pan and added that as well. To make this more refined, just strain it through a fine mesh sieve before serving.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 lb. ripe tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on the size
  
• 2 large red bell peppers, halved and seeded
  
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 tsp. herbes de provence
• 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
• 3 to 4 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
• 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
• salt & pepper

METHOD

1. Preheat over to 375°.
2. Coat the tomatoes and bell peppers in a drizzle of olive oil and a hefty pinch of salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes to an hour. Remove from the oven and give the bell peppers a rough chop.
3. Heat 2 tbsp. of olive oil in a small pot. When hot, add the onions and saute over medium heat until golden. Add a pinch of salt, the garlic, the herbes de provence, and the pepper flakes. Stir until fragrant.
4. Using a spatula lift the soft tomatoes from the sheet and add to the onion mixture. Toss in the bell pepper and cook for a minute or two with the tomatoes and onions.
5. Pour in the chicken stock. You’ll want just enough to cover the tomatoes and onions. Bring to simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
6. Once the soup as come together use an immersion blender to blend the soup to your desired consistency. If necessary, feel free to add more chicken stock.
7. Taste for salt and pepper and allow to simmer 5 more minutes.
8. Serve with fresh basil and a drizzle of crème fraÎche or sour cream.

serves 2

THAI CHICKEN PIZZA

When I told everybody I was making a barbecue chicken pizza for my website, people asked me why I wasn’t making Thai chicken pizza instead.  Truthfully, I didn’t realize it was such a beloved item on the California Pizza Kitchen menu.  I’ve always loved them — in fact, I almost ate my weight in the frozen version while I was in college — but I never realized that other people shared my same propensity.  For me (and apparently pretty much everyone else), there is something undeniable about the combination of aromatic peanut sauce, green onions and carrots, all  piled high on a chewy crust and topped with cheese. Not at all Italian, totally un-Thai, just “American” grub at its most adaptive.
The best part of making this particular pizza at home is you can get as creative as you want. I left off the usual bean sprouts, but you could certainly add them for extra crunch. And no need to break out the crushed red pepper flakes.  Here I use sriracha chili sauce to add a little bite, but of course, if spicy’s not your thing, feel free to leave it off. A sprinkling of freshly chopped Thai basil in addition to or in lieu of the cilantro (for those cilantro-haters out there) would be a perfect compliment to the sweet, salty flavor of the peanut sauce. No matter how you top it, if you like peanut sauce, you’ll love this pizza. Plus, no tipping necessary when you’re cooking out of your own kitchen.

THAI CHICKEN PIZZA

When assembling this pizza, feel free to add as little or as much of the toppings as you want, but keep in mind that a pizza that is too heavily loaded with ingredients can end up cooking unevenly and may result in a messy final pie.  The balance of flavors is key, not the amount you can fit on the dough.  If you want even more crunch in your finished pizza, consider adding the carrots after baking as opposed to before.  I use Thai marinated grilled chicken breasts in this recipe for added authenticity, but you should feel free to use store-bought rotisserie chicken if you’re short on time — the flavorful peanut sauce should provide more than enough flavor.  I’ve said it before, but if you’re serious about making pizza at home and still don’t have a pizza stone, it should be at the top of your priority list.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
• About 1 1/4 cups homemade Thai peanut sauce (or store-bought)
• 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
• 1 cup cooked grilled Thai chicken, diced (recipe below)
• 4 green onions, thinly sliced
• 1 large carrot, julienne or coarsely grated
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
• 1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
• Sriracha chili sauce for garnish (optional)

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half and hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, warm the peanut sauce in a saucepan set over low heat until heated through and pourable.
4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
5. Using a ladle, spoon an even layer of the peanut sauce onto the dough and carefully spread it close to the border being careful to leave a 1/2-inch edge.  Top with an even layer of mozzarella cheese followed by pieces of the diced Thai chicken, green onions and carrots.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of the vegetable oil to promote browning.
6. Slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the roasted peanuts,  freshly chopped cilantro leaves and sriracha. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 Pizzas

BANGKOK-STYLE GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST

This is a fantastic coconut milk marinade for chicken.  It works just as well with whole, butterflied chickens as well as bone-in, skin-on pieces.  Here I use the marinade on boneless, skinless breasts.  If you don’t have an outdoor grill or grill pan, feel free to roast the breasts in a 425° oven.  You won’t be able to develop as much caramelization, but the chicken will still be quite flavorful.  The marinade contains a bit of sugar, so monitor your heat closely and watch for burning.
INGREDIENTS:

• 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 7 ounces (1/2 can) coconut milk
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 1/4 cup loosely packed chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 tablespoon brown sugar
• 3/4 teaspoon white pepper

METHOD:

1. Place the chicken breasts on a cutting board and lightly score each side in a crosshatch pattern with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to penetrate.
2. Combine the coconut milk, curry powder, fish sauce, garlic, cilantro, sugar and pepper in a bowl.  Stir well and until sugar has dissolved and marinade is smooth.  Place the chicken breasts in a resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade in on top.  Seal the bag and massage the marinade into the meat to ensure an even coating.  Refrigerate the chicken and leave it to marinate for at least 3 hours or as long as overnight.
3. Prepare a charcoal grill for direct heat grilling over medium-low heat or preheat a grill pan over medium-low heat.  Place the chicken on the grill and cook, moving the chicken if any flare-ups occur, until slightly charred in spots and cooked through to an internal temperature of 160°, about 7-8 minutes per side.
4. Remove the chicken from the grill and transfer to a platter. Allow the meat to rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing.

BANH MI SANDWICH

If you haven’t tried Vietnamese banh mi by now, you’ve been missing out on a truly remarkable sandwich. At once exotic, but at the same time decidedly familiar, these guys are unlike anything in the American lunchtime lineup.  No cheese or mustard here, just the perfect marriage of sour, salty and savory Vietnamese flavors on a sweet, light-as-air, French baguette all harmoniously coming together in one killer snack.
Topped with crunchy pickled carrots and daikon, cool sliced cucumber, aromatic cilantro and spicy chilies, a good banh mi is a melange of flavors and textures. Not unlike a BLT, banh mi are salty, crunchy and juicy with a nice counterpoint of warm meats. Packed with savory roast pork or my version with grilled five-spice chicken shown above, the real beauty of this sandwich is its variety of delicious proteins.  From grilled lemongrass beef or sardine, to the deli combo loaded with roast pork, mortadella and paté there are plenty of options out there to satisfy any hankering. Here in San Francisco, Saigon Sandwich on Larkin Street is home to some of the finest banh mi around.  At $3.50 apiece, I defy you to find a better quality, more filling sandwich for cheaper anywhere in the city.  This is the Asian sandwich.

Banh Mi Sandwich

When making a sandwich of this caliber, it’s important that all of the ingredients be of the highest quality and freshness that you can find.  Start out by looking for a nice, light and airy french baguette.  The last thing you want here is a chewy, razor sharp crust getting in the way of all those delicious, delicate flavors within.  I’ve gone with 5-spice chicken for this particular build, but feel free to use grilled lemongrass beef, Vietnamese roast pork, Chinese-style char siu, påté, or even your favorite deli meat.  One of my favorite components of a good banh mi is the sharp, bright heat of a few jalapeño rings.  If that kinda heat isn’t your thing, consider drizzling in sriracha to give your sandwich a bit of bite.  No matter what you do, definitely take the time to make the pickled daikon and carrots from the recipe listed below.  A banh mi really isn’t a banh mi without them.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 8-inch long pieces of a light, airy french baguette
• Mayonnaise or softened butter
• Soy Sauce or Maggi Seasoning for drizzling
• 2-3 cups grilled, sliced, boneless-skinless, five spice chicken thighs
• 4-6 thin slices English cucumber, seeded
• Pickled Daikon and Carrots (Recipe Below)
• 6 cilantro sprigs
• Jalapeño, thinly sliced
• Sriracha Chili Sauce (Optional)

METHOD:

1. Slice each piece of baguette in half horizontally, stopping before you cut all the way through to leave a hinge.  Lightly toast the baguette pieces in the oven until just barely crusty and set aside to cool for a moment.
2. Generously slather the inside of each baguette with mayonnaise or softened butter and sprinkle with a few dashes of soy sauce or Maggi seasoning.
3. Layer in warm slices of grilled five-spice chicken and top with 1/3 cup pickled daikon/carrots, cucumber, cilantro and a few slices of jalapeño.
4. Serve warm or at room temperature.
   

Makes enough for 2 sandwiches

Pickled Daikon

from Andrea Nguyen’s, Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors

Be warned, these guys can positively reek.  Don’t let the smell put you off as they have a wonderful sweet, sour quality and add the perfect, necessary crunch to the sandwich. For a full primer on how to pick out daikon and craft the flavor to suit your own taste, check out Andrea’s thorough primer on do chua here.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 large carrot, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
• 1 pound daikons, each no larger than 2 inches in diameter, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup sugar
• 1  1/4 cups distilled white vinegar
• 1 cup lukewarm water

METHOD:

1. Place the carrot and daikons in a bowl and sprinkle with the salt and 2 teaspoons of the sugar. Use your hands to knead the vegetables for about 3 minutes, expelling the water from them. They will soften and liquid will pool at the bottom of the bowl. Stop kneading when you can bend a piece of daikon so that the ends touch but the daikon does not break. The vegetables should have lost about one-fourth of their volume. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water, then press gently to expel extra water. Return the vegetables to the bowl if you plan to eat them soon, or transfer them to a 1-quart jar for longer storage.
2. To make the brine, in a bowl, combine the 1/2 cup sugar, the vinegar, and the water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the vegetables. The brine should cover the vegetables. Let the vegetables marinate in the brine for at least 1 hour before eating. They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. Beyond that point, they get tired.

PECAN HONEY STICKY BUNS

To me, there’s no item in the pastry case sexier than the sticky bun.  Cloaked in a caramel and studded with candied pecans, the cinnamon bun seems downright dowdy when compared with these breakfast beauties.  Like I said in my post for Ham and Cheese Breakfast Sandwiches, I’m not big on sweet starts to my morning.  But there is something I find irresistible about the chewy-crisp texture and sweet cinnamon aroma of a good sticky bun.  And man are these things sweet!
The perfect treat for a large breakfast gathering, few can turn down such a stunning and decadent offering.  With Christmas just around the corner, I can’t imagine a more ideal match than a cup of coffee and one of these warm-from-the-oven buns while opening up presents by the tree.

PECAN HONEY STICKY BUNS

From Baking: From My Home to Yours, by Dorie Greenspan
Thanks to the expert tutelage of Dorie Greenspan, I didn’t find making brioche dough very difficult at all.  It is indeed a time-consuming process and requires a period of overnight resting, but once you have the hard part out of the way, you’ll be left with enough dough to make two large batches of sticky buns. The dough freezes very well and can even be filled, rolled and stored in the freezer for a future occasion.  Rolling out the dough can be a bit difficult due to its sticky nature, so make sure to work with it on a well-floured surface.  I found that a tightly rolled log produces a more picturesque bun with a consistent texture, so don’t forget to take your time during this seemingly inconsequential step.  Finally, this recipe can be halved very easily.  Simply reduce the glaze by half and bake the buns in a smaller pan.  The results are just as delicious.

GOLDEN BRIOCHE DOUGH

Ingredients:

• 2 packets active dry yeast
• 1/3 cup barely warm water
• 1/3 cup barely warm milk
• 3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 tsp. salt
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1/4 cup sugar
  
• 3 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature but still slightly firm

Method:

1. Put the yeast, water and milk in the bowl of a stand mixer and, using a wooden spoon, stir until the yeast is dissolved. Add the flour and salt, and fit the mixture with the dough hook, if you have one. Toss a towel over the mixer to avoid being showered in flour. Turn the mixer on and off in a few short pulses, just to dampen the flour, then remove the towel, increase the mixer speed to medium-high just until the flour is moistened. You should have a fairly dry, shaggy mass.
2. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, set the mixer to low and add the eggs, followed by the sugar. Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat for about 3 minutes, until the dough forms a ball. Reduce the speed to low and add the butter in 2-tablespoon size chunks, beating until each piece is almost incorporated before adding the next. You’ll have a dough that is very soft, almost like a batter. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue to beat until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, about 10 minutes.
3. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes.
4. Deflate the dough by lifting it up around the edges and letting it fall with a slap into the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator. Slap the dough down in the bowl every 30 minutes until it stops rising, about 2 hours, then leave the covered dough in the refrigerator to chill overnight.
5. At this point, you’ll have two loaves worth of dough. Split the dough in two. Set aside one piece for the buns and either freeze the other for another time or bake it in a loaf pan. Butter and flour the loaf pan. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll each piece into a log about 3 1/2 inches long. Arrange the logs crosswise in the bottom of the pan. Cover the pan lightly with wax paper and leave the loaf at room temperature until the dough almost fills the pans, 1 to 2 hours. Brush tops with a mixture of egg and 1 tbsp. water. Bake in a 400 degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes.

PECAN HONEY STICKY BUNS
Ingredients:

For the glaze:

• 1 cup light brown sugar, packed
• 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1 1/2 cups pecans (whole or pieces)

For the filling:

• 1/4 cup sugar
• 3 tbsp. light brown sugar, packed
• 1 tbsp. ground cinnamon
• 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

Method:

1. Generously butter a 9 x 13 inch banking pan.
2. To make the glaze: In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the brown sugar, butter and honey to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring frequently to dissolve the sugar. Pour the glaze into the buttered pan, evening it out as best you can by tilting the pan or spreading the glaze with a heatproof spatula. Sprinkle the pecans over it.
3. To make the filling: Mix the sugars and cinnamon together in a bowl. If necessary, in another bowl, work the butter with a spatula until it is soft, smooth and spreadable.
4. To shape the buns: On a flour-dusted work surface, roll the chilled dough into a 16-inch square. Using your fingers or a pastry brush, spread the softened butter over the dough. Sprinkle the dough with the cinnamon sugar, leaving a 1-inch strip bare on the side farthest from you. Starting with the side nearest you, roll the dough into a cylinder, keeping the roll as tight as you can. (At this point you can wrap the dough and freeze it for up to 2 months.) With a chef’s knife, using a gentle sawing motions, trim just a tiny bit from the ends of the roll if they’re very ragged, then cut the log into 1-inch buns. Fit the buns into the pan cut side down, leaving some space between them.
5. Lightly cover the pan with a piece of wax paper and set the pan in a warm place until the buns have doubled in volume, about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
6. When the buns have almost fully risen, preheat the oven the 375 degrees.
7. Remove the sheet of wax paper and put the pan on a baking sheet. Bake the sticky buns for about 30 minutes, or until they are puffed and golden; the glaze will bubble.
8. Pull the pan from the oven. The sticky buns must be unmolded minutes after they come out of the oven. Turn out onto a platter or lined baking sheet.

SPINACH-GORGONZOLA PASTA

I should start by saying that this dish is rich — certainly not for those still trying to stick to their New Years resolution.  While cream sauced pasta might always be an off-limit item for calorie counters, it’s the Gorgonzola, ricotta and Parmesan cheese that makes this dish especially decadent and delicious.  It’s this same indulgent quality that has people lined up around the block at Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria, a neighborhood fixture in a small beach town called Capitola, a few miles south of Santa Cruz in Northern California.

I visited Gayle’s for the first time in college on an adventure to find a solid, quality meal and a break from the less-than inspiring food of the dining hall.  Craving something comforting more than anything, I felt right at home in front of their massive rotisserie and deli case packed with roasted chickens, slow barbecued ribs, potato salad and sandwiches.  The place was bustling with business and food was flying out the door but nothing seemed to be selling faster than the humble looking spinach-gorgonzola pasta.  As I remember it, not one customer left without ordering some.  So, like any smart food explorer, I did as the locals did and took some to-go.  After a few bites, it was obvious what all fuss was about.
Having moved away from Santa Cruz, I’m no longer able to take part in what became a near-weekly trip to Gayle’s for some of their signature pasta.  So feeling especially deprived of late, I searched for the restaurant online and was lucky enough to find that they’ve been giving out the recipe to their customers for years.  After making the dish at home this past weekend, I’m happy to report that it’s as soul-satisfying as I remember it.

SPINACH-GORGONZOLA PASTA

From Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria, Capitola, California
This pasta gets its rich flavor from a thick and creamy Gorgonzola cream sauce.  Making the béchamel sauce is simple, but make sure you taste the sauce for seasoning before you cool it to ensure that the tangy flavor of the cheese really shines.  Seasoning is also important when it comes to boiling the pasta.  Make sure to do so in a very large pot of highly salted water to ensure that the shells end up well-seasoned.  It is of the utmost importance that you only cook the pasta to the point of being very al dente.  I like to err on the side of underdone to ensure the pasta doesn’t fall apart after baking.  If shells aren’t your thing, bow tie pasta would be a great substitute in this recipe.  For an outstanding and authentic Italian twist, try substituting grilled or sauteed radicchio in place of the spinach for a pleasantly bitter accent to the cheesy sauce.  When it comes time to bake the pasta, it’s best to do so in a vessel that will allow the pasta to be fairly well covered with sauce as this will prevent it from drying out.  Finally, use as much or as little of the grated Parmesan as you would like to top the dish and give it a crusty brown top.

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 cups of milk
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 10 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
• 4 pinches nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 1 pound large pasta shells
• 2 bunches fresh spinach, cleaned and dried, or 1 package frozen
• 3/4 cup ricotta cheese, well-drained
  
• 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
• Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, heat the milk until hot but not boiling.
2. Meanwhile, combine flour and butter in another heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat with a wooden spoon or whisk until the mixture has gently bubbled for 2 minutes, being careful not to brown the flour.
3. Begin to add the hot milk to the flour mixture a little at a time while whisking vigorously. Continue to add the milk until it is fully incorporated. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 6 to 8 minutes. it will look like heavy cream. Crumble the cheese and add it to the hot béchamel sauce, whisking continuously until smooth. Add the nutmeg and pepper and stir. Remove form heat and let cool.
4. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes, until al dente. Drain and set aside.
5. If using fresh spinach, blanch it 1 to 2 minutes in a little boiling water. Drain it, let it cool, and squeeze all of the water out several times. if you are using frozen spinach, let it defrost in a sieve over a bowl for at least 3 hours. Squeeze all the water out by hand.
6. Toss the pasta, Gorgonzola sauce, spinach, ricotta, and garlic in a large bowl until well combined. Taste and correct for salt and pepper.
7. Place in a 12 X 17-inch casserole dish and top with the Parmesan. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the cheese browns a little. you may make this a day ahead, and before baking, refrigerate well covered.

Makes 6-8 Servings

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

This peanut butter chocolate chip cookie recipe represents one of my Mom’s most frequently requested treats.  As an avid peanut butter cookie fan myself, I put in a request for a batch as often as I can get away with it.  In fact, these cookies have shown up in one iteration or another throughout my entire life.
In elementary school, each student was permitted to bring in some kind of confection to share with the class on their birthday.  Each year, much to the delight of my classmates, I would ask to have these peanut butter cookies with a Hershey kiss planted in the middle.  Over the years, my tastes have changed, and so too has this chameleon of a cookie dough base.  As time has gone by, these cookies have seen the inclusion of everything from toffee pieces to raisins and even rolled oats (one of my personal favorites).  Whatever form these guys take, rest assured that with a recipe this solid, you really can’t go wrong adding in any of your favorites.  These days my Mom likes to make them with chocolate chips and chopped peanuts — a classic combination that is top three all-time in my book.

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

This cookie dough is an adaptation of a recipe that calls for the cookies to be made much smaller and then sandwiched around jelly or jam for a “peanut butter and jelly sandwich” effect.  Instead, we make the cookies larger and throw in everything from cashews to oatmeal in an effort to doctor up the outstanding dough base.  If you want an especially attractive final product, do what my Mom does and dip the back of a fork in flour before laying on the signature crosshatch pattern of all good peanut butter cookies.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
• 1/2 cup butter or shortening
• 1/2 cup peanut butter
  
• 1 egg
• 1 1/4 cups all-purpose or whole wheat flour
• 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  
• 1/4 teaspoon table salt
• 1 cup chocolate chips
• 1 cup chopped peanuts or cashews

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 375°.
   
2. Cream the butter or shortening with both sugars until light and fluffy in a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.
3. Add in the egg along with the peanut butter and process until just incorporated.
4. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt and add to the peanut butter mixture in the bowl with the mixer on low speed until just combined.
5. Remove the mixing bowl from the electric mixer and gently fold in the chocolate chips and chopped peanuts.
6. Shape the dough into 1 1/4-inch balls and place them 3-inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. With the back of a fork dipped in flour, gently flatten each dough ball in a crisscross pattern.
7. Bake until set but not hard, about 10-12 minutes.  Cool slightly before removing from cookie sheet.

RED CHILE & CHORIZO CHILAQUILES

I love chilaquiles.  In fact, I crave them so often that I drag myself out of bed early on a Saturday morning at least once a month to feast on one of my favorite versions from Primavera at the San Francisco Ferry Terminal Farmers Market.  That’s what you have to do if you’re going to try to beat the hordes of people that line up for this delicious Mexican breakfast dish every weekend.
We’ve all had huevos rancheros at one crappy diner or another at some point in our lives, but for those that have never tried authentic chilaquiles, it’s understandable how the concept could sound a bit bizarre.  Admittedly, the idea of crispy tortilla chips drowned in a sea of flavorful red chile sauce seems a bit unorthodox.  I mean who likes soggy nachos anyways? But for those that simply can’t wrap their head around the idea of a somewhat soggy nacho, I’d encourage you to think outside of Latin American cuisine to another ethnic group that also marries sauce and carbohydrates so beautifully — the Italians.
I an effort to convey the craveable aspects of this dish, I’d encourage you think of chilaquiles as you would the perfect bowl of pasta.  Here, the thick-cut (preferably homemade) tortilla chips play the role of al dente pasta that has a bit of soft crunch and resiliency left to it, but has also absorbed some of the delicious sauce that surrounds it.  Topped with spicy chorizo, tangy Mexican crema, crumbled cotija cheese and ripe avocado and you have a breakfast dish that will set you up for a whole days worth of activities…or an early afternoon nap.

RED CHILE & CHORIZO CHILAQUILES

Adapted from a Rick Bayless & Saveur Magazine Recipe
Making chilaquiles at home, likes eggs Benedict, can be a bit of an undertaking for the average home cook.  It’s for this very reason that good preparation and organization is a must.  Do yourself a favor and make the chile sauce the night before.  If you opt to make your own tortilla chips (which I highly recommend), this too can be accomplished ahead of time to alleviate the work load on the day of service. For me, chorizo and breakfast are synonymous, but if pork isn’t your thing or you find it too greasy you can always use shredded chicken or keep it vegetarian for an equally delicious plate of food.  Here I present a version with a sunny-side up egg, but serving these chilaquiles alongside some fluffy scrambled eggs is delicious (that’s how Primavera does it).  Finally, if you’re interested in making this dish but are planning on only serving two, refrigerate or freeze half of the sauce and warm the remainder in a skillet along with half of the amount of chips.

INGREDIENTS:

• 8 medium (2 ounces total) dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and torn into flat pieces
• 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted), drained
• 4 large garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
• 2 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil (divided use)
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1⁄4 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
• Salt
• 8 ounces (8 to 12 loosely packed cups, depending on thickness) thick homemade-style corn tortilla chips (such as the ones you buy at a Mexican grocery)
• 1/2 pound fresh Mexican chorizo, sauteed until just cooked and broken up with the back of a wooden spoon
• 4 eggs
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• About 1/3 Mexican crema or sour cream
• 1/2 cup crumbled cotija cheese
• 4 radishes, very thinly sliced
• 2 avocados, peeled, pitted and diced
• Chopped cilantro for garnish

METHOD:

1. Toast the chile pieces a few at a time in a dry heavy skillet or on a griddle heated over medium, pressing them flat against the hot surface with a metal spatula until they are aromatic, about 19 seconds per side.  In a bowl, rehydrate the chiles for 20 minutes in hot tap water to cover; place a small plate on the top to keep the chiles submerged.
2. Using a pair of tongs, transfer the rehydrated chiles to a food processor or blender. Measure in 1 cup of water, add the tomatoes and garlic and process to a smooth puree. Press through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl.
3. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium pot or Dutch oven or a large (12-inch) deep skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the chile puree and stir until reduced to the consistency of tomato paste, anywhere from 7-12 minutes.  Add the broth, partially cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes. Season with sugar and about 1 scant teaspoon. You should have about a generous 4 cups of brothy sauce.
4. Just before finishing the chilaquiles, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium. Add the eggs and cook on one side just until set, sunny-side up.
5. Raise the heat under the seasoned sauce to medium-high. Stir in the chips, turning to coat all of them well. Let the sauce return to a simmer, cover and turn off the heat. Let stand for 5 minutes (no longer).
6. Uncover the pot and check that the chips have softened nicely—they should be a little chewy, but not mushy. Spoon onto warm plates. Transfer an egg to each portion, crumble on the warm chorizo and drizzle each portion with the crema.  Scatter on some thinly sliced red onion, crumbled cotija cheese, sliced radishes, diced avocado and garnish with chopped cilantro.  Serve immediately.

Serves 4

HOME-STYLE SLOPPY JOES

I didn’t eat many sloppy joes growing up. Maybe my parents ate one too many soggy renditions during their own childhood, but for whatever reason this was an item that was rarely seen on the dinner menu at my house.  It turns out that my lack of experience with these saucy, loose meat burgers puts me in a minority among friends who all recount fond memories of eating them on a near weekly basis. For me, sloppy joes have always represented your typical lunch counter fodder: a half simmering pot of reddish-brown mystery meat smashed between a sodden, dissolve-on-contact bun. For them, Mom cracking open a can of Manwich stood out as a true suppertime treat in a lineup of otherwise dismal home-cooked fare.
It wasn’t until I came across a recipe for this iconic American sandwich in a recent issue of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine that I decided to give sloppy joes another look.  As usual, it looked as though the editors had found a few ways to rid the dish of it’s usual shortcomings and breath new life into an old favorite.  So, with a pound of ground beef sitting in the freezer and few extra homemade buns lying around from my fried chicken sandwiches, I set out to see what I’d been missing all these years.
The results were nothing short of spectacular.  Robust and beefy with a pleasant brightness coming from the addition of tomato puree, these joes were unlike anything I’d tasted in the past.  Gone was the typical grainy, greasy texture, replaced with a consistency that was pleasantly thick, yet saucy enough to blend seamlessly with the tender, pillow-soft bun.
Now to convince my parents to give them a shot.

HOME-STYLE SLOPPY JOES

Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated Magazine, American Classics
Mixing the sauce ingredients ahead of time will allow you to devote all of your attention to the color and texture of the meat in the pan.  When stirring the beef, be sure to break up the any large lumps with the back of a spoon and cook it just to the point of being pink.  Browning the meat during this stage will result in dry, grainy sloppy joes so don’t worry about cooking it all the way through — it will finish cooking in the simmering sauce.  Finally, don’t be afraid to add in any of your favorite flavors along with the tomato/ketchup sauce.  A few dashes of Worcestershire sauce helps bolster the meat’s beefy flavor while barbecue sauce adds a nice smoky element.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  
• 1 medium onion, finely minced
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt
• 2 medium garlic cloves, pressed through a garlic press
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  
• 1 teaspoon brown sugar
• 1 cup tomato puree
• 1/2 cup ketchup
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/4 teaspoon hot sauce (or more to taste)
• Hamburger buns for serving
  

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, tomato puree, ketchup, water and hot sauce. Stir briefly to dissolve the sugar and incorporate the ingredients and set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until just shimmering.  Add the onions and the salt, stir to coat with oil.  Cover with a lid and cook until the onion is soft and translucent, about 10 minutes.  Be sure to stir the onions every once in a while to prevent scorching.  If the onions begin to brown, turn down the heat to low.
3. Add the garlic and chili powder and cook, uncovered until fragrant and well combined, about 30 seconds.
4. Add the beef and cook over medium heat, breaking up the meat with the back of your spoon until just pink, about 3 minutes.
   
5. Add the reserved tomato sauce mixture and stir to combine with the beef and onions.  Simmer over medium-low heat until the mixture is slightly thicker than ketchup, about 8-10 minutes.
6. Season the sloppy joes to taste with remaining salt and black pepper.  Spoon on to hamburger buns and serve immediately.
   

Makes 6 large burgers

BROCCOLI BEEF

My girlfriend (and her entire family) is nuts for broccoli beef.  In fact, she’s down with almost all of the classic Chinese-American dishes — chow mein, wonton soup, cashew chicken, etc.  When I told her I was planning on pulling together a few recipes for Chinese New Year to post on the blog, she insisted that this dish had to be on the menu.  As she put it, “this is the type of Chinese food that everybody loves.”  As hard as it is to admit, I too am fairly partial to a good take-out box of broccoli beef every once in a while.  Sure, I have a few Chinese friends that scoff at the very notion of this dish as a truly “authentic” Chinese dish, but the fact of the matter is, this is good, simple comfort food at its best.
Making good broccoli beef at home is way easier than most people think.  In fact, with a few Asian ingredients that all home chefs should have in their pantry and about a pound of good flank steak, the average home cook can have an outstanding dish on their table in less than a half hour.  Simply follow the principles of good stir-frying technique and you are pretty much guaranteed solid results.  Make this dish. After you see how easy it is to put together you might just reconsider paying $9-$10 for it at a restaurant the next time you get that craving.

BROCCOLI BEEF

Adapted from Jaden Hair’s Recipe at Simply Recipes

Blanching the broccoli before adding it to the pan ensures that each floret will be perfectly cooked in your final dish as it would never have the chance to fully cook given the brief frying period in this recipe.  As with all blanching of vegetables, do so in a very large pot of well-salted water and have your ice bath ready and waiting.  When it comes time to stir-fry the beef, make sure your pan is ripping hot.  Once the beef has been added, don’t touch it.  I like there to be a good amount of caramelization taking place on the meat during this initial sear and you will not be able to induce much browning if you are constantly stirring the contents of the pan.  Considering how drastic the difference in salt levels can be among certain brands of soy sauce and oyster sauce, taste the sauce before adding it to the pan and adjust accordingly.  If you find the sauce a bit too salty, try adding a few pinches of sugar to balance out the flavor.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound flank steak, thinly sliced against the grain
• 3/4 pound broccoli florets
• 2 tablespoons peanut, grapeseed or vegetable oil
• 2 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1 teaspoon cornstarch, dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

For the Marinade:

• 1 teaspoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the Sauce:

• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 1 teaspoon Chinese rice wine (or dry sherry)
• 1 tablespoon light soy sauce
• 1/4 cup chicken broth
• 1/4 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
• Sugar to taste

METHOD:

1. Marinate the Beef: Stir together the beef marinade ingredients in a medium bowl.  Add in the slices of beef and stir until well coated.  Set aside at room temperature for at least 10 minutes.
   
2. Make the Sauce: Stir together the sauce ingredients in a small bowl until well combined. Set aside.
   
3. Blanch the Broccoli: Cook the broccoli florets in a large pot of well-salted boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes or until crisp-tender.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the broccoli from the boiling water and ‘shock’ the florets immediately in ice water to stop the cooking process.  Drain well, dry and set aside.
   
4. Make the Broccoli Beef: Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet or wok over set over high heat until shimmering and just starting to smoke.  Add the marinated beef to the pan in a single layer, making sure that each pieces lays flat against the bottom for maximum surface contact.  Let the beef fry for 1 minutes without turning or flipping.  Turn the beef over, add the garlic to the pan and allow to fry for another 30 seconds or until no longer pink.
   
5. Stir the contents of the pan and pour in the sauce, add the blanched broccoli and bring to a boil.  Add the dissolved cornstarch liquid and simmer until slightly thickened, about 30 more seconds.  Take the pan off the heat, swirl in the sesame oil and serve immediately.

Serves 4

SPICED BROWN SUGAR CARROT BREAD

As much as I would love to start out each day with a couple of cheesy scrambled eggs, salty bacon and a nice big piece of toast, the reality is that I wait until the absolute last minute to get out of bed and shower each morning, thus leaving me with no time to ever really cook anything of substance.  Sadly, my late-to-rise routine usually results in me dashing out the door each morning with a hastily toasted bagel in one hand and my computer in the other.  Of course, I love a good cream cheese slathered bagel, but sometimes I’m looking for something a bit sweeter to start my day with that still fits within the hand-held morning model.  While donuts and pancakes can be far too sweet for a quick breakfast and since cereal isn’t meant to be taken on the go, I’ve found that a nice thick slice of moist quick bread is the best compromise.
The mix of spices and ginger make this quick bread exceptionally delicious and the perfect way to use leftover carrots you probably have wilting away in your crisper. With a small, even crumb and dark, caramelized exterior, this bread is best with a pad of butter and your morning coffee. It may not satisfy the urge for a savory, cheese and egg-laden breakfast, but I doubt anyone will be complaining.

SPICED BROWN SUGAR CARROT BREAD

Adapted from from Beth Hensperger, Food & Wine Magazine
Don’t be afraid to play around with the spices and the ginger; I’ve included what I like best, but if you’d rather use dry ginger or more cinnamon don’t hesitate to give it try. If I’m looking for extra fiber, I sometimes swap out a bit of the flour with ground flax seed — it adds texture and a slight nutty flavor. As the method states, make sure to take your time when pouring in the oil. Also, the bread will get moister and more flavorful as it sits. I like to make it a day in advance. Of course, feel free to freeze the second loaf; it should thaw beautifully.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
  
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
• 1 teaspoon crushed ground cardamom
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 4 large eggs
• 1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 1 cup canola oil
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
  
• Grated zest of 1 orange
  
• 2 1/2 cups shredded carrots (about 14 ounces)

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Coat two 8-by-4-inch loaf pans with cooking spray or grease and lightly flour the pans.
2. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, cardamom and salt.
3. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the light brown sugar and granulated sugar until smooth. Add the oil in a thin stream, beating at high speed until the batter has doubled in volume, about 2 minutes. Beat in the vanilla, orange zest and ginger. Fold in the shredded carrots. Beat in the dry ingredients at low speed in 3 batches, mixing well between additions.
4. Pour the batter into the prepared pans, filling them two-thirds full. Bake in the middle of the oven for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until a cake tester inserted into the center of the loaves comes out clean. Let the loaves cool in the pans for 10 minutes before turning them out onto a rack to cool completely.

Makes 2 8-by-4-inch loaves

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

These lettuce cups might be a little too P.F. Chang’s for some people, but this is a recipe I’ve come back to time and time again for quick, delicious results.  Big on flavor and a cinch to prepare, ginger pork lettuce cups are an amazing start to an Asian-inspired menu and have even taken center stage on more than one dinner occasion.
Here, unctuous ground pork and umami-rich oyster sauce mingle with crunchy water chestnuts and finely diced red bell pepper to create a filling that is as appealing to the eye as it is to the palate. The contrast in texture between the hot, salty filling and the cool, crispy lettuce is a combination that has me coming back to this recipe over and over again.  The best part? Once you have all the necessary ingredients in your pantry, whipping this dish up on a weeknight is as easy as it gets.

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

Adapted from the August, 2006 issue of Food & Wine Magazine
When making the ginger pork mixture, I like to let it sit out for a few minutes to allow the flavors to marry and the ingredients to come up to room temperature. When stir-frying the pork, it’s important to use as high of heat as your stove will allow.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly and break up any large lumps.  The goal is to drive away as much moisture from the pork as possible so that it will have a chance to caramelize in the fat.  There is something especially appealing about eating the pork in lettuce leaves but it would also be delicious served over rice.  Minced chicken or turkey would also make fine substitutes for the pork in this dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound ground pork
• 1  medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 serrano or thai bird chile, finely minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
• 1 tablespoon Thai sweet chili sauce
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut or grapeseed oil
• 1 8-ounce can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 24 Boston lettuce leaves

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork with the diced red bell pepper, minced chile, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chile sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the peanut or grapeseed oil.  Set the bowl aside and allow the flavors to come together for at least 15 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat.  Allow the skillet to get screaming hot before adding in the pork.  Stir-fry the mixture over high heat, breaking it up, until the pork is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the oyster sauce, diced water chestnuts, scallions and cilantro and remove from heat.
3. Serve the ginger pork in a bowl along with a stack of the lettuce leaves on a plate.  To eat, spoon some of the ginger pork onto a lettuce leaf, roll up and enjoy.
   

Makes enough for 6 appetizer servings or dinner for two

PANANG BEEF CURRY

Ah, the good ol’ days: when spending 30 bucks on Thai takeout was just your typical Wednesday night. Now, income-less, Thai food along with Chinese and pizza seems like quite the luxury. These days I’m making my own Thai food, and to be honest, not missing a thing.  At home, I make Thai food the way I like it.  Very spicy, fairly salty and just a little sweet. Such is the beauty of having curry pastes sitting in your freezer ready at your disposal.  What seems like an exotic and esoteric cuisine on the surface is actually fairly simple to prepare at home.
I like to think of panang as a great beginner curry for those that are new to Thai cuisine.  Reminiscent of everybody’s favorite peanut dipping sauce which accompanies the ubiquitous satay, panang is at once both bright and aromatic while at the same time, rich and comforting.
I’m lucky enough to live in San Francisco where I can find pretty much anything I need at any of the many Asian markets.  However, if you love Thai food and can’t find a store that stocks such items as palm sugar, lime leaves, or good Thai coconut milk, check out www.importfood.com for everything you need (and then some).

PANANG BEEF CURRY

Once you have the hard part of making the paste out of the way, this curry comes together quite quickly.  Make sure to use a good, full-fat brand of coconut milk when making this dish.  The thick cream that settles at the top of each can is rich in oil and acts as the perfect stir-frying medium to bloom the curry paste’s aroma and flavors.  Many panang recipes call for the addition of ground peanuts instead of peanut butter.  Either makes a fine choice, but I love the velvety texture that comes from using the stuff in jars.  Finally, adjust the final seasoning to your own tastes.  Some people like their curry sweeter or saltier than others, so feel free to add more fish sauce or palm sugar along the way to fit your own palate.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 19 fl. oz can Thai coconut milk (I use Mae Ploy brand)
• 4-5 tablespoons homemade Panang curry paste
• 1 lb. beef cross rib roast, sliced 2 x 1/4 inch thick
• 3-4 tablespoons fish sauce
• 2 tablespoons palm sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-natural peanut butter (smooth or crunchy)
• 1/2 cup water
• 4-6 Thai chilies, split lengthwise
• 2-3 limes leaves cut into a chiffonade for garnish
• Lime wedges for garnish

METHOD:

1. Skim the thick cream from the top of the can of coconut milk into a large saucepan, reserving the watery milk.  Set the saucepan over medium-high heat and stir the cream vigorously until the glossy oil surfaces.
2. Add the curry paste and continue to stir vigorously until fragrant and a red oil surfaces, about 2 minutes.
3. Add in the sliced beef and stir to coat well with the curry mixture.  Add in the remaining coconut milk, fish sauce, palm sugar, peanut butter, water and chilies.  Stir to dissolve the the peanut butter and palm sugar and simmer over low heat for one hour, or until the curry has reduced into a thick sauce and the beef is very tender.
4. Taste the curry for for salt and sweetness.  If it needs more salt, add a few more dashes of fish sauce, if it needs to be sweeter, add more palm sugar.
5. Transfer the curry to a serving bowl and garnish with the lime leaf chiffonade.  Serve with lime wedges.

Serves 4

SPICY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH

When it comes to fast food guilty pleasures, for me, a good spicy chicken sandwich ranks near the top.  Having eaten my fair share from just about every fast food chain out there while I was in high school, I consider myself to be a bit of a connoisseur when it comes to the crispy, neon-orange chicken pucks of the world.  I know, I know, that crap is not only horrible for you, but also made from ingredients we’d all rather not know about.  That’s precisely why I set out to recreate this drive-thru favorite at home.  Think of it as a slow food take on a fast food classic.
Made with organic, boneless-skinless breasts, a spicy buttermilk marinade and fiery Cajun seasoning blend, the flavor of this scratch-made rendition easily outranks that of its greasy, artificial cousin.  When combined with ripe tomato slices, crisp lettuce and creamy mayonnaise on a homemade sesame seed bun, you have a fried chicken sandwich good enough to get excited about without the guilt of processed, chain food.
It might not be the healthiest sandwich out there, but like mozzarella sticks, you’ll feel better knowing its homemade.

SPICY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH

Soaking the chicken overnight in a spicy buttermilk marinade not only adds great heat but also helps tenderize the chicken.  If you don’t have self-rising flour on hand, make your own by combining 1 cup of all-purpose flour with 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons of baking powder.  I’ve included a recipe for the Cajun seasoning I make at home, but any store-bought brand will work just as well here.  I like the simplicity of a great slice of tomato, fresh lettuce and mayonnaise on this sandwich, but you could just as easily top this chicken with melted cheese, refreshing coleslaw or even substitute the mayo for some ranch dressing.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 boneless skinless chicken breasts, sliced horizontally into 4 thin cutlets
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1-2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
• Cajun seasoning for dusting (recipe follows)
• 1 cup self-rising flour
• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 2 eggs
• 2 teaspoons hot sauce
• Canola or vegetable for frying
• 4 sesame seed hamburger buns
• Mayonnaise for spreading
  
• 4 leaves of butter or leaf lettuce
• Tomato slices for garnish

METHOD:

1. Pour the buttermilk into a bowl and whisk in the cayenne pepper.  Add the chicken cutlets to the buttermilk mix and marinate them overnight in the refrigerator.
2. Take the chicken out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before frying.  In a shallow bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the hot sauce and set aside.  Pour the flour onto a clean plate and stir in the coarsely ground black pepper and set aside.
   
3. Drain the chicken cutlets from the buttermilk marinade and place on a clean plate. Sprinkle both sides of each cutlet heavily with Cajun seasoning before dunking it in the egg mixture.  Quickly dredge the seasoned chicken in the flour-pepper mixture, making sure to shake off any excess.  Place on a clean plate and repeat with remaining chicken.
   
4. Pour oil to a depth of 2” into a 4-qt. heavy-bottom pot and heat over medium-high heat until the temperature registers 325° on a candy thermometer.  Working 2 pieces of chicken at a time, carefully submerge them in the hot oil and fry until crispy and golden brown, about 4-5 minutes per batch.  Remove the fried chicken cutlets to a plate lined with paper towels and repeat with the remaining chicken.  Keep first batch of chicken warm in a low, 200° oven.
   
5. Spread each half of the hamburger buns with mayonnaise (or ranch dressing) and top with a fried chicken cutlet, lettuce and tomato.  Serve immediately.

Makes 4 sandwiches

CAJUN SEASONING

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

METHOD:

1. Stir to combine all the ingredients in a small bowl.
   
2. Store in an airtight jar.  Use on fish, chicken and pork.

PHRIK KHING CURRY PASTE

Every once in a while I’ll spend a Sunday afternoon making some Thai curry paste. Like I mentioned in my recipe for panang curry paste, a quick trip to the Asian market for a few hard to find ingredients and about an hour in the kitchen with your mortar and pestle will set you up for a good month of authentic Thai cooking at home.
As far as I’m concerned, this stuff is money in the bank.  It keeps for a  up to a month in the fridge and is perfect for pulling together a bona fide Thai meal in minutes.  Stir-fry the paste, some meat and a few handfuls of seasonal vegetables in your favorite wok, add in some stock, palm sugar, fish sauce and Thai basil, throw it all on top of some sticky rice and you’ll be set up for some truly delicious eating.

Unlike a red, green or yellow curry, phrik khing is considered a “dry-style” curry, free of any coconut milk.  Instead, the paste is fried in oil and moistened with a bit of stock to create a sauce that clings to the protein and veggies.  The resulting dish can be characterized as smooth and a bit peppery with fragrant notes of galangal and lemongrass throughout.
So, next time you’re looking for something to cook on a lazy Sunday afternoon, consider making some homemade curry paste and look forward to reaping the rich culinary dividends of delicious Thai meals in the weeks that follow.

PHRIK KHING CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking
Do yourself a favor and get your mise en place in order before setting out to make this paste.  Soak your chiles, wrap your shrimp paste in foil, zest your limes and peel your shallots and you’ll be able to pull the paste together in and efficient, organized fashion.  The guajillo chiles used here are mild and fruity, so if you’re looking for a paste with a bit more heat, feel free to add in some fresh or dried Thai chiles to the mix.  This recipe calls for the use of a mortar and pestle as well as food processor, but you can certainly get away with just using one or the other.  Store it in the fridge for about a month and in the freezer for up to three.

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 large dried Guajillo chilies
• 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 tablespoon minced fresh Kaffir lime peel or domestic lime peel
• 1 large stalk lemongrass, outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped, peeled fresh galangal, or common ginger
• 1/4 cup chopped garlic
• 1/2 cup shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies and shake out most of the seeds. Cut the chilies in half lengthwise and remove any tough, dried ribs. Cut them crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces and put in a bowl. Cover with water and soak for 30 minutes. Set a small skillet on medium heat. Place the foil-wrapped shrimp paste in the skilled and cook for about 5 minutes, until aromatic, turning the packet over once or twice. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
2. Put the peppercorns in a large, heavy mortar and grind them to a powder. Transfer ground pepper to the bowl of a food processor. Add the salt.
3. Combine the minced lime peel, lemongrass and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar just until crushed and transfer to the food processor. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor. Drain the chilies, reserving about 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid. Add the chilies to the food processor.
4. Process the ingredients until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the work bowl. Add a few tablespoons of the chili-soaking liquid now and then, if needed to ease the grinding.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

B.E.L.T. SANDWICH

In elementary school, showing up to the lunch table with an egg salad sandwich was almost certain social suicide. This was unfortunate for someone like myself who simply loved the stuff.  Along with tuna sandwiches (which somehow brought about an even more violent reaction in my peers), egg salad sandwiches were unfortunately an after school snack staple.
It wasn’t until I was in college, going to school at the University of California at Santa Cruz, that my girlfriend turned me on to  a version of egg salad that even picky grade schoolers would have difficult time hating. Known as the BELT at Zoccoli’s Delicatessen on Pacific Avenue, this simple, yet delicious sandwich marries the classic bacon, lettuce and tomato version with the creamy, richness of egg salad on toasted wheat bread. 

B.E.L.T. SANDWICH

Inspired by the version at Zoccoli’s Delicatessen in Santa Cruz, California
When making the egg salad for this sandwich, don’t be afraid to add in all of your seasoning to the mix. I personally love coarsely chopped celery and dill pickle along with some parsley or chives for added flavor. The amount of mayonnaise, mustard, salt, and pepper that you end up using is completely up to you and your own taste. Also, when boiling the eggs, I like to allow the water to just come to a boil before turning off the heat, putting on the lid and letting them sit for 7 to 8 minutes. After shocking the eggs in ice water to stop the cooking process, you are left with brilliant yellow yolks that are just set in the center.

INGREDIENTS

• 3 large eggs
• 1-2 tablespoons of mayonnaise
• 1-2 teaspoons of yellow mustard (dijon, lemon juice and even vinegar can work here too)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 ripe tomato, sliced
• 4 tender leaves of lettuce
• 6 pieces of thick cut bacon
• 4 slices of good quality,  whole wheat bread

METHOD

1. Cook bacon in a large skillet over low heat until most of the fat has rendered and the pieces are slightly crisp. Drain on paper towels and set aside.
2. Place the eggs in a small saucepan and add enough water to cover them by about half an inch. Bring to a slow boil over moderate heat and remove the pan from heat. Place the lid on the saucepan and allow to sit for about 7 minute. 
3. Meanwhile prepare a bowl of ice water. When the eggs have finished cooking, remove them to the bowl of ice water with a slotted spoon and allow to cool.
4. Peel the eggs and coarsely mash to your desired texture along with the mayonnaise, mustard, salt and pepper to taste.
5. Lightly toast the bread and spread a thin layer of mayonnaise on each slice. Begin by layering a few pieces of lettuce on the bottom slice, followed by half of the egg salad, tomato slices and bacon. Slice in half and serve immediately with homemade Dill Pickles.

Makes 2 sandwiches

PEAR SALAD WITH BLUE CHEESE & CANDIED WALNUTS

Growing up it was this salad that my mom served to guests at dinner. Even after the main course was done and the dessert, too, it was this salad that guests talked about. Nearly two decades later when I serve it to my own group of friends — at sit-down dinners and potlucks alike — it is still subject to the same “oohs” and “aahs.” In a time when entire salads come in a bag — fruits, nuts, dressing and cheese included — this salad seems simultaneously ordinary and luxurious. But, in fact, it’s neither. Yes, fruit has become rather ubiquitous in mass-market salads — proved by a quick trip to the supermarket or a ride through the drive-thru — and yes, this salad requires a wee bit more effort, but with tender leaf lettuces, homemade candied walnuts, pungent blue cheese and juicy pieces of ripe, fresh pear gently tossed in sweet poppy seed dressing, it is certainly more than the sum of its parts.
I like to think of this salad as a reflection of the seasons. In winter it brims with pear and also citrus segments, but in summer I’ll glaze slivered almonds and toss in sliced strawberries and feta.  In fall, I serve it with tart apple slivers and spiced pecans. No matter what you use, there’s no wrong combination — this salad is timeless.

PEAR SALAD WITH BLUE CHEESE & CANDIED WALNUTS

When making the candied walnuts in this recipe, be sure to keep a close eye on them while they’re baking and stir them occasionally to prevent uneven browning and potential burning.  They are a cinch to make and last for about three days in a tightly sealed container if you have the foresight to make them ahead of time.  The recipe will make a full cup, but you may only feel the salad needs about a half cup, leaving you plenty to munch on.  If you already have some spiced walnuts on-hand or a favorite recipe of your own, feel free to use it here too.  The blue cheese used in this recipe can make a huge difference in it’s final overall flavor.  Look for varieties in the same vein as gorgonzola that pair especially well with sweet flavors like honey. When it comes time to assemble the salad, make your life easier by doing so in a very large bowl.  Coat the lettuces with the poppy seed dressing by gently tossing the leaves until everything is suitably dressed.  I like to use my hands for this crucial step as I am better able to turn the leaves in the dressing and I can feel how much they need.  Serve the salad on chilled plates to keep the leaves cool and serve to your guests immediately for optimal flavor and texture.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Pecans:

• Nonstick vegetable oil spray
• 1 cup walnuts
• 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
• 1 tablespoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon table salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• Large pinch, cayenne pepper

For the Salad:

• 1 head of leaf lettuce, core removed, washed and dried thoroughly
• 1/2 cup candied pecans
  
• 1/2 cup coarsely crumbled blue cheese
• 1/2 of a red onion, sliced thinly and soaked in ice cold water
• 1 large or 2 small ripe pears, cored and thinly sliced
  
• Poppy seed dressing, to coat

METHOD:

1. Make the Walnuts: Preheat the oven to 375°.  In a small bowl, combine the walnuts, corn syrup, sugar, salt, black pepper and cayenne and mix until the nuts are evenly coated.
2. Spread the walnuts in an even layer onto a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake in the oven, stirring and flipping occasionally, until the nuts are deep golden and the sugar mixture is bubbling, about 15-20 minutes.  Remove the baking sheet from oven and allow to cool completely.
3. Assemble the Salad: Tear or cut the lettuce into manageable, bite-size pieces and place them in a bowl large enough to toss the leaves with dressing.
4. Add the candied pecans, blue cheese, red onion, pear slices along with enough poppy seed dressing to just coat the lettuce. Toss everything until well dressed and divide the salad among four chilled plates, drizzling a little extra dressing over each, right before service. Served garnished with freshly cracked black pepper.
   

Serves 4 as a first course