GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

These lettuce cups might be a little too P.F. Chang’s for some people, but this is a recipe I’ve come back to time and time again for quick, delicious results.  Big on flavor and a cinch to prepare, ginger pork lettuce cups are an amazing start to an Asian-inspired menu and have even taken center stage on more than one dinner occasion.
Here, unctuous ground pork and umami-rich oyster sauce mingle with crunchy water chestnuts and finely diced red bell pepper to create a filling that is as appealing to the eye as it is to the palate. The contrast in texture between the hot, salty filling and the cool, crispy lettuce is a combination that has me coming back to this recipe over and over again.  The best part? Once you have all the necessary ingredients in your pantry, whipping this dish up on a weeknight is as easy as it gets.

GINGER PORK LETTUCE CUPS

Adapted from the August, 2006 issue of Food & Wine Magazine
When making the ginger pork mixture, I like to let it sit out for a few minutes to allow the flavors to marry and the ingredients to come up to room temperature. When stir-frying the pork, it’s important to use as high of heat as your stove will allow.  Be sure to stir the mixture constantly and break up any large lumps.  The goal is to drive away as much moisture from the pork as possible so that it will have a chance to caramelize in the fat.  There is something especially appealing about eating the pork in lettuce leaves but it would also be delicious served over rice.  Minced chicken or turkey would also make fine substitutes for the pork in this dish.

INGREDIENTS:

• 3/4 pound ground pork
• 1  medium red bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 serrano or thai bird chile, finely minced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tablespoon minced, peeled ginger
• 1 tablespoon Thai sweet chili sauce
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut or grapeseed oil
• 1 8-ounce can whole water chestnuts, drained and finely diced
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons oyster sauce
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• 24 Boston lettuce leaves

METHOD:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork with the diced red bell pepper, minced chile, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, chile sauce, sesame oil and 1 tablespoon of the peanut or grapeseed oil.  Set the bowl aside and allow the flavors to come together for at least 15 minutes at room temperature.
2. Heat a large skillet or wok over high heat.  Allow the skillet to get screaming hot before adding in the pork.  Stir-fry the mixture over high heat, breaking it up, until the pork is cooked through and beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Stir in the oyster sauce, diced water chestnuts, scallions and cilantro and remove from heat.
3. Serve the ginger pork in a bowl along with a stack of the lettuce leaves on a plate.  To eat, spoon some of the ginger pork onto a lettuce leaf, roll up and enjoy.
   

Makes enough for 6 appetizer servings or dinner for two

POPPY SEED DRESSING

After a weekend of less-than-healthy eating — the Super Bowl has that effect — I figured it was high-time to post one of my all-time favorite salad dressings.  In fact, this dressing is so special that I decided to give it its own post (tune in tomorrow for the perfect salad).  While Italian, ranch and blue cheese might hold the throne as America’s favorite salad dressings, I’d like to introduce you to what you’ve been missing out on — poppy seed dressing.  I know, I know.  Poppy seeds? While you might be wondering how poppy seeds could still be relevant, especially in a salad dressing, consider the words of Kay Rentschler from her New York Times article on this misunderstood spice, “Ultimately, it is as a finely granular, dusky backdrop that poppy seeds make their point best, a point well articulated in the presence of lemon or orange peel, the smoke of sweet spices or the fragrant notes of honey or orange flower oil.”  Sounds like they might find a nice home in a unique sweet and sour salad dressing, doesn’t it?
Romanticism aside, I’ve eaten this dressing since I was a boy, on salads as varied as tender red leaf lettuce with grapefruit segments and blue cheese to sturdy spinach leaves with strawberries and feta — you really can’t go wrong.  In fact, the beauty of this dressing is its ability to compliment ripe fruit regardless of season.  Wintertime salad? Use crisp apples or tangy orange segments for a refreshing contrast to this dressing’s sweet notes.  Have pears from the farmers market lying around?  Toss them in as a sweet foil to the same tangy dressing.
As tasty as it is beautiful, this one-of-a-kind dressing is worth making for the work week when you’re in the need of something light and refreshing. Whip up a batch in the blender, throw it in your fridge and eat like a king for the week.

POPPY SEED SALAD DRESSING

Adapted from San Francisco à la Carte
If you don’t have a blender, this dressing can be made the old-fashioned way, by emulsifying the dressing with a good wire whisk.  I like to use apple cider vinegar, but if you don’t have any on-hand, feel free to use white wine or distilled vinegar.  When it comes time to finely grate the red onion, use the small holes on a box grater for best results and flavor.  When adding the oil, make sure you pour it in slowly to achieve a nice, even emulsion.  This is a resilient salad dressing that will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator if stored correctly, but don’t be afraid to halve the recipe if you wish; it still turns out wonderfully.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoons mustard (I use Coleman’s)
• 1 teaspoon table salt or 2 teaspoons Kosher
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup canola or grapeseed oil
• 1/3 cup apple cider or white wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup finely grated red onion
• 1 1/2 teaspoon poppy seeds

METHOD:

1. Pour the olive and canola oil into a measuring cup and set aside.
2. Add the sugar, mustard, red onion and salt to the jar of a blender.  Pour in the vinegar and blend on high until the sugar has thoroughly dissolved.
3. With the motor still running, remove the lid from the blender and pour in the combined oils in a steady stream until emulsified.
4. Pour the dressing into a jar, add the poppy seeds and shake or stir the dressing to combine.  Seal the jar tightly and refrigerate until use.

Makes about 2 cups

SPINACH, FETA & KALAMATA OLIVE STROMBOLI

I should start by saying that I’d never actually eaten stromboli before making this recipe.  After seeing a rendition on TV, I set out to make one in the style of Stuff Yer Face in New Brunswick, New Jersey.  Where most versions seem to be rolled into a pinwheel-like log, this version is more like a burrito — er, Hot Pocket.  Not quite a pizza, almost like a calzone, stromboli seemed like a perfect hand-held version of one of my favorite foods.  Then again, I’m the kind of person who likes to fold my pizza slices in half before biting into them — there’s just something so satisfying about biting into gooey cheese surrounded by crisp then chewy dough.
Sure enough, the ‘boli satisfied this particular craving. Cheesy, salty with tart feta cheese, chalk full of wilted spinach and steaming hot, if you even kind of like pizza (and who doesn’t?), then you’re going to like biting into one of these. Plus, if you have the dough on hand already, they’re easy enough to put together for a lazy weeknight dinner.

SPINACH, FETA & KALAMATA OLIVE STROMBOLI

This recipe uses a your classic Italian-American, New York-style pizza sauce.  If you were hoping for a light, San Marzano sauce, look elsewhere because this one is packed with basil, oregano and tomato paste.  Even so, choose your tomatoes and paste wisely as each brand can vary dramatically in terms of acidity and sweetness so use your taste buds and adjust for the sauce for balance after it’s been processed.  A six ounce can of paste might seem like a lot, but keep in mind that this is a thick, sweet pizzeria-style sauce.  A good melting cheese is key for these stromboli.  Look to use a low-moisture mozzarella or a blend of mozzarella, provolone, fontina or Parmesan for a fantastic final dish.  If kalamata olives, feta cheese and spinach aren’t your thing, go with hand-sliced, quality pepperoni from an Italian deli for an upscale riff on the classic Hot Pocket.

INGREDIENTS

For the Pizza Sauce:

• 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes
• 1 6-ounce can tomato paste
• 1 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped basil or 2 teaspoons dried
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 1/2 teaspoons Kosher salt
• Red wine vinegar to taste
• Olive oil, for brushing
  

For the Stromboli

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, set out at room temperature
• 1 – 1 1/2 cups, sauce
• 4 cups loosely packed spinach leaves
• 4 cups mozzarella cheese, or other good melting cheese
• 1 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved if desired
• 1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled

METHOD:

1. Make the sauce: Place all of the sauce ingredients in a food processor and blend until well incorporated. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more salt, sugar or vinegar to balance the flavor. Set aside.
2. Assemble the Stromboli: Preheat a pizza stone in a 500° oven for at least 1/2 hour. Divide the dough into 4 equal-sized pieces, roll them each into tight balls and allow them to rest at room temperature while the oven heats.
3. Working on a well floured surface and using a rolling pin, roll each dough ball into a 1/8-inch thick, 12×6-inch oblong oval shape.  Spread 1/4 cup of the pizza sauce into the center of each dough round and top with 1 cup of spinach leaves, 1 cup of the mozzarella, 1/4 cup of kalamata cheese and a couple of tablespoons of crumbled feta cheese.  Working as if you were rolling up a burrito, stretch the dough a bit towards the center of the stromboli and wrap the edge closest to you around the filling and roll the whole thing up like a log — pinch the seam firmly to ensure a good seal.  Lightly score the top of each stromboli to allow them to vent slightly during the baking process.
4. Brush the stromboli with olive oil and bake them directly on the pizza stone until golden brown, about 5-7 minutes.  Remove them with a pizza peel and allow to rest for about 5 minutes before going in.

Makes 4 Stromboli

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH A MUSTARD CRUST

I’m sure they wouldn’t like to admit it, but even some of the world’s most accomplished home cooks struggle when attempting to roast the perfect chicken.  The fact is it’s far easier to make a roasted chicken look good than it is to make it taste good. I don’t know how many times I’ve sat down to enjoy what I believed to be a perfectly roasted chicken — the quintessential golden brown bird flecked with black pepper and fragrant herbs — only to cut into the thing and find it bone dry or worse, still raw at the bone. Or, and this is perhaps worst of all, a combination of both, so that you end up hacking it up and destroying the only thing it had going for it: its good looks.
But this roast chicken? Well, it’s an entirely different beast, or rather, bird.  First, it’s the smell. An intoxicating aroma of garlic will start you salivating. Then you’ll notice the skin. Not only is it golden brown, it’s crisp, like really crisp.  And beneath that exterior you’ll find the juiciest and most tender chicken you’ve ever cut into. But it’s the flavor that will leave you coming back for more. The marinade’s combination of garlic, mustard, soy sauce and herbes de provence create a flavor that is at once familiar and completely unexpected. In addition to the marinade, the cooking method is also unique. Unlike typical whole roasted chicken, this recipe calls for you to butterfly the bird. Not only does this help the meat cook more evenly, but it also allows you to sear the bottom of the chicken before throwing it in the oven and cook it in half the time of a usual whole roasted chicken. Sound perfect? It is. But don’t take my word for it.

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH A MUSTARD CRUST

Adapted from Jacques Pepin’s, More Fast Food My Way
The thought of removing the backbone from the chicken in this recipe can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve never done it before, but rest assured that it is actually quite a simple skill that all home chefs should have in their arsenal.  Make sure to use a sharp knife or a good pair of heavy duty kitchen shears and don’t be afraid to use a little elbow grease to get through those rib bones.  If you are too intimidated by such a task, most butchers will happily do this for you.  Whichever route you choose though, make sure you save the backbone for making rich, homemade chicken stock.  Cutting deep slashes in and around the thigh and shoulder joints of the bird allows for quick, even cooking due to increased heat penetration.  When it comes time to rest the bird after roasting, don’t let all those beautiful caramelized bits go to waste in the skillet.  Pour off any excess fat, return the skillet to the stove over medium heat and deglaze the pan with a splash of white wine, being sure to scrape up any browned bits clinging to the pan.  Pour in a bit of chicken stock (about a cup), bring to a simmer and swirl in a couple of tablespoons of cold butter just before serving and you will be left with an outstanding gravy, perfect for pouring over fluffy mashed potatoes.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
  
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon hot sauce
• 1 teaspoons herbs de Provence
  
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
  
• 1 chicken (3 1/2 – 4 pounds)

METHOD:

1. Whisk all of the ingredients (except chicken) together in a small bowl until emulsified into a fragrant, wet marinade.
   
2. Using kitchen shears or a sharp knife, cut along each side of the backbone to remove it.  The best way to do this if you don’t have kitchen shears is to sit the chicken on it’s bottom and slice all the way down each side of the back bone in a straight line. Once you’ve removed the backbone, open the chicken up like a book and place it on the cutting board, cavity side down. Press firmly in the center of the breast to crack the breastbone and encourage a flatter shape.  Using a sharp paring knife, cut halfway through both sides of the joints connecting the drumstick to the thigh and cut through the joints of the shoulder under the wing as well.
3. Place the chicken skin side down in a large baking dish and evenly spoon on half of the mustard marinade.  Flip the chicken over and spread the remaining mustard mixture evenly over the skin side of the chicken.  Wrap the dish in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
4. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes prior to cooking and preheat the oven to 450° F. Place a skillet large enough to accommodate the chicken over high heat.  When hot, place the chicken in the pan skin side up and spoon on any leftover marinade in the baking dish.  Cook the chicken on the stovetop for 5 minutes before placing the entire skillet in the oven.  Roast for 30-35 minutes, or until the chicken is well-browned with a crispy skin.
5. Remove the skillet from the oven and allow the chicken to rest in the pan for at least 5 minutes.  Place the chicken on a clean cutting board and allow it to rest for another 5 minutes.  Cut the chicken into 8 pieces using a sharp knife or kitchen shears and serve alongside mashed potatoes or a mixed green salad.

Serves 4

TOFFEE CHEESECAKE WITH CARAMEL SAUCE

Anybody who knows me will tell you that I’m not the biggest fan of chocolate desserts.  With the exception of a few, very special sweets in our family recipe book, I vastly prefer those confections featuring toffee, nuts, or citrus.  So, when it came time to decide what dessert to have with our Christmas dinner this year, my family came to a bit of brick wall.  Having already eaten pumpkin and pecan pie during Thanksgiving, we were all in the mood for something a little different this time around.  With ideas like an apple galette and bread pudding being thrown around, each option seemed to fall flat the second it was introduced  — keeping with tradition, we were a bit indecisive.  It wasn’t until my sister insisted upon a dessert that included caramel in some form or another that my Mom suddenly remembered a recipe from an old Bon Appétite that she used to make years ago for special occasions — Toffee Cheesecake.

I don’t think I need to tell you how good this cheesecake really is.  I mean, caramel sauce? Whipped cream? Skor bar!?  What’s not to like?  The one thing I can say is that this is an extremely rich dessert of which a little goes a long way.  Next time you have a special occasion on the horizon, consider making this decadent dessert which will easily feed 10-12 guests.

TOFFEE CHEESECAKE WITH CARAMEL SAUCE

From the Old Porte Inn, Avila Beach, California
There are very few tips or techniques I can offer you for this recipe.  Follow the directions closely and you should end up with outstanding results.  I will offer this insight however; if you’re going to go all out and make such a decadent dessert, don’t bother trying to cut caloric corners using low-fat cream cheese.  If you want truly spectacular cheesecake filling, go one step further and seek out natural, old-fashioned cream cheese that is free of stabilizers.  When whipping the cheese, make sure to do so until very fluffy as this will produce an especially delightful final texture.  After baking, the cheesecake will sink a bit in the center.  Don’t worry though, the final cake will look perfectly level after it is filled with a pool of delicious caramel sauce.  If you’re into the whole salted caramel thing, do what I did and add a bit of sea salt to the caramel sauce for a salty-sweet finish.  Finally, this cake does just fine fully dressed and decorated in the fridge, so don’t be afraid to make it a full day ahead of when you plan on serving it.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
• 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
• 1/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
• 2 pounds cream cheese, room temperature
• 1 1/2 cups sugar
• 5 large eggs, room temperature
• 2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 1/3 cup water
• 1 cup whipping cream
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, room temperature
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3/4 cup whipping cream
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 3 1.4 ounce toffee candy bars (such as Skor or Heath) broken into pieces

METHOD:

For the Crust:

1. Preheat oven to 350°.
2. Lightly butter inside of a 9 in. diameter springform pan with 2 3/4-inch sides.
3. Combine crumbs, butter and brown sugar in a small bowl.
4. Press crumbs over bottom and 1 inch up the sides of the pan.
5. Refrigerate the crust.

For the Filling:

1. Using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese in a large bowl until fluffy.
2. Add sugar and beat until smooth.
3. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time.
4. Mix in vanilla extract and fresh lemon juice.
5. Pour filling into prepared crust, and bake until cake rises about 1/2 inch over rim and the center moves only slightly when pan is shaken, about 1 hr 15 min.
6. Cool on a rack (the cake will fall as it cools, sinking in the center)
7. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 6 hours. These steps can be done 1 day ahead.

For the Topping:

1. Heat sugar and water in a heavy medium saucepan over low heat, stirring until sugar dissolves.
2. Increase the heat and boil without stirring until mixture is a rich, amber color, occasionally swirling and washing down the sides of the pan with a brush dipped in cold water, about 8 minutes.
3. Reduce heat to very low. Add cream (mixture will bubble up) and stir until smooth.
4. Mix in butter. Cool slightly. Mix in vanilla.

To Assemble the Cheesecake:

1. Using a small, sharp knife, cut around the sides of the pan to loosen the cake.  Release the pan sides.
2. Pour 2/3 cup of the caramel sauce over the cake from the center spreading outward to the edges.
3. Cover the remaining caramel sauce and let stand at room temperature.
4. Chill cake until caramel topping is set, about 2 hours.
5. Whip 3/4 cup cream with 2 tablespoons of sugar in a medium bowl until firm peaks form.
6. Spoon cream into a pastry bag fitted with a star tip. Pipe cream, decoratively around the edge of the cake.
7. Arrange toffee pieces in the whipped cream border. Refrigerate until serving.
8. Cut cake into wedges. Serve, passing the remaining caramel sauce separately.
   

Makes 10 generous servings

SPLIT PEA SOUP

While my Mom is good at cooking many things, my Dad and I both agree that she is especially great at making delicious, comforting soups.  From minestrone and lentil to chicken tortilla and roasted butternut squash, she would be the first to point out that, “it’s kind of hard to screw up soup”.  Ever the modest chef, my Mom’s casual approach to cooking is something I look to emulate in the kitchen on a daily basis.  With a propensity to sweat the small stuff when it comes to recipe components and cooking techniques, it is while making soup that I feel the most at ease.  In fact, I’ve found that soup making can be one of the most relaxing of kitchen tasks.  Throw a bunch of quality ingredients in a pot, simmer low and slow until the flavors come together and you have a simple and satisfying supper with leftovers for the week.
A hearty and warming soup, split pea with ham is one of my all-time favorites for the Fall because of its earthy flavor, rustic texture and tender shreds of smoky pork.  There are countless way to make this comfort classic, but I am particularly fond of adding bit of cream sherry at the end of cooking for a unique, sophisticated sweetness.  This is a very simple soup to prepare and certainly one falls into the category of dishes that are difficult to screw up.

SPLIT PEA SOUP

Adding the dried peas to the pot in two installments guarantees a good amount of texture to the soup.  Be sure to simmer the soup for the entire recommended length of time before adding any salt as the smoked ham hock will contribute a good amount of its own.  The addition of cream sherry at the end of cooking makes for a grown up flavor that slightly sweetens the soup while adding complexity and another dimension of flavor. This soup really thickens after a bit of refrigeration.  When reheating, it’s best to keep some extra stock (or water) on hand to thin down the soup to your desired consistency.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 cup chopped yellow onion (about one medium onion)
• 1/2 tablespoon garlic (about 1-2 cloves)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano or dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 cups diced carrots
• 1 cup diced, unpeeled red skin potatoes
  
• 1 pound dried split peas
• 8 cups chicken stock or water
• 1 2 1/2 – 3 1/2 pound bone-in, smoked ham hock
  
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1 tablespoon cream sherry (optional)
  

METHOD:

1. In a 6-quart pot, heat olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onions, garlic, dried herbs and pepper until translucent and soft, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the smoked ham hock and sauté briefly until it begins to color slightly, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the carrots, potatoes and 3/4 of the dried split peas.  Add in the stock or water, bring to a boil and then turn the heat down to low and simmer uncovered for 40 minutes.  Skim off foam periodically as it collects on the surface.
4. After 40 minutes, add in the remaining split peas and continue to simmer for another 40-50 minutes, stirring every once in a while to make sure that the peas don’t scorch on the bottom of the pot.
5. Carefully remove the ham hock from the hot soup to a clean plate.  Allow the ham to cool slightly before pulling the meat from the bone and shredding it into bite size pieces.
6. Return the shredded ham to the pot and swirl in the optional cream sherry.  Add kosher salt to taste.
   
7. Serve warm in bowls garnished with a Parmesan crouton.
   

Serves 5-6

PARMESAN CROUTONS

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 sourdough baguette
• Olive oil for brushing
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• Finely chopped fresh thyme or oregano

METHOD:

• Preheat the oven to 400º.
• Slice baguette on a bias into 1/4 thick pieces.  Place bread slices on a baking sheet and brush each with olive oil before sprinkling on kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
• Top each slice with a sprinkling of grated cheese and minced herbs and bake in the oven for 20 minutes, or until the bread is golden brown and the cheese is bubbly.
• Serve croutons at room temperature.

PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO

Mention potatoes on pizza and you’ll get one of two responses. From the folks who’ve tried it, you can expect an enthusiastic thumbs up. From everyonce else: a resounding “huh?” That’s the thing about pizza with potato – it sounds strange, until you try it, and then you just get it.
Tasting the ‘You Say Potato’ slice for the first time at Escape from New York Pizza on Haight Street in San Francisco was this moment for me.  Still in high school at the time, far out pizza toppings went about far as bacon and clams as in my Dad’s favorite New Haven-style pie from Pepe’s in New Haven, Connecticut.  A diehard pepperoni fan, I was blown away by the idea of putting a potato on a pizza.  Actually I probably wouldn’t have tried it had my vegetarian buddy not touted it as being “the best” slice of pizza he’d ever eaten.  He was right. Tender yet toothsome potatoes and savory whole-roasted garlic cloves come together in a one of a kind pesto pizza experience.
Over a decade later, I finally got around to trying it at home.  Don’t wait as long as I did; add this unbeatable flavor combination to your pizza-making repertoire now.  Then when someone mentions potatoes on a pizza, you’ll know.

PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO

Inspired by the You Say Potato Slice at Escape from New York Pizza, San Francisco

As the addition of potatoes are what really sets this pizza apart, it is important to make sure they are cooked and seasoned properly before they go on top of the pie.  To ensure that the potatoes are cooked all the way through when the pizza comes out of the oven, I blanch them in boiling water, just until they lose their crunch.  After draining them off, toss them them with a bit of leftover oil from the roasted garlic, sprinkle with herbs and a bit of salt and they’ll be ready to shine. By the way, making this a second time I added in crumbled bacon I had lying around and it was excellent; I highly recommend it to my pork-loving comrades.

INGREDIENTS:

• 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
• About 1 cup homemade pesto (or store-bought)
• 2-3 cups grated mozzarella/provolone cheese
• 1 cup roasted or confit garlic cloves (recipe below)
• 4 red skinned potatoes, very thinly sliced
• 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Crushed red pepper flakes

METHOD:

1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half an hour before baking pizzas.
2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, blanch the potato slices in boiling water until just cooked through, anywhere between 1 – 2 minutes.  Drain and allow to cool slightly before drying the slices with paper towels and coating them with a touch of olive oil, a pinch of Italian seasoning and kosher salt.
4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
5. Using a large spoon, spread an even layer of the pesto onto the dough and carefully spread it to within 1/2-inch of the edge, being careful to leave a sauce free edge.  Top with an even layer of the grated mozzarella/provolone cheese followed by slices of parboiled potatoes and roasted garlic cloves.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella, season with salt to taste and a pinch of red pepper flakes.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of olive oil (or leftover garlic) oil to promote browning.
6. Carefully slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling and just beginning to brown, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove the pizza from the oven and allow it to rest for a few minutes before slicing.

Makes enough for 2 pizzas

Roasted or Confit Garlic

In this recipe I like to confit the garlic cloves as opposed to roast them whole in an effort maintain the integrity of the garlic.  If you have some roasted garlic cloves laying around or prefer to roast a head of garlic wrapped in foil, feel free to do that instead.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 or 2 head of garlic, broken down into individual cloves and peeled
• Olive oil
• 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• Kosher salt

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 300.  Add the peeled garlic cloves to a small saucepan and pour in olive oil until just barely covered.  Add a pinch of Italian seasoning and Kosher salt and roast in the oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until golden brown and soft.  Remove the saucepan from the oven and allow the garlic confit to cool.  Remove garlic cloves and store infused oil in the fridge for up to a week for another dishes.

CLASSIC MEATLOAF

The real title of this post should be “Mom’s Meatloaf,” as this is the very same recipe I grew up eating as a child.  A perennial favorite in our household, few meatloaves deliver in the way this barbecue sauce-topped rendition does.  The epitome of comfort, my Mom would be the first to tell you that this dish is “hard to screw up.”  In fact, it’s the simplicity of this recipe that makes it a true standout in my mind.  Perfect for company, yet quick and easy enough for a weeknight meal, this tender and juicy meatloaf comes together in no time and feeds a crowd for next to nothing.  Covered with a sweet, tangy homemade barbecue sauce, this meatloaf is sure to please even the pickiest of eaters as few can resist it’s sticky, ketchup-like topping.  If you love meatloaf but can’t justify the saturated fat, substitute ground turkey for a version that is just as tasty and quite a bit healthier — you’ll barely notice the difference.  As good cold as it is served warm, this recipe also makes for a killer meatloaf sandwich.  So, in a world filled with so much bad meatloaf, do yourself a favor and go with a tried-and-true recipe that works.  Your family, friends and significant others will thank you.

CLASSIC MEATLOAF

The beauty of this recipe is in its simplicity.  I like to briefly saute the onion prior to adding it to the loaf mixture in an effort to bring out a bit of its sweet character and remove a bit of its rawness.  I use panko instead of traditional breadcrumbs as I find their addition creates a more tender, lighter textured final meatloaf.  The barbecue sauce in this recipe is what makes this version a true winner.  I’ve outlined the basic technique below, but feel free to add any of your favorite ingredients to this simple sauce.  It will still appear to be a bit thin when added to the top of the meatloaf prior to baking, but don’t worry; it will thicken substantially during the hour and a half bake time in the oven.  Once cooked, the meatloaf will have given up some of its juices.  This is normal.  Allow the meatloaf to rest, as this will ensure that it reabsorbs some of those precious, flavorful juices.  If you are inclined to do so, defat the accumulated juices and reduce them in a small saucepan over low heat until slightly thickened for a killer gravy to top your sliced meatloaf.  Finally, feel free to use a combination of beef, pork and veal or go all beef or turkey if you want.  Either way, it’ll still turn out solid.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 medium onion, finely minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
  
• 1 pound ground beef
  
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
  
• 1 14-ounce can tomato puree, divided
  
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 4 teaspoons Kosher Salt
• 1 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/3 cup chopped parsley
• 2 tablespoons mustard
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
  
• 2-3 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon chipotle pepper powder or BBQ seasoning
  

METHOD:

1. Preheat the oven to 350°
2. Heat the olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat until hot and sweat the onion, stirring occasionally until just translucent and no longer raw, about 5 minutes.  Transfer the onion to a plate and allow to cool.
3. In a large bowl, combine the beef, pork, breadcrumbs, cooled onions, half the tomato puree, eggs, salt, pepper, thyme and parsley.  Using clean hands, mix the ingredients thoroughly until well combined.  Lightly pack the mixture into a greased loaf pan and set aside while you prepare the barbecue sauce.
4. In a small saucepan, add the remaining tomato puree along with the mustard, cider vinegar, brown sugar, and chipotle powder.  Season the barbecue sauce to taste with salt and pepper and bring to a gentle simmer and allow to thicken slightly, about 5-8 minutes.  Remove the sauce from the heat and allow to cool a bit.
5. Pour the warm barbecue sauce on top of the prepared meatloaf and bake in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meatloaf registers 150°.  Remove the loaf from the oven and place it on a rack to rest for at least 15-20 minutes.  Once rested, pour off excess juices (setting aside for gravy if desired), remove the loaf from the pan and slice into 1-inch thick slices.  Serve at once.
   

Serves 6-8

PANANG CURRY PASTE

Maybe I watched too many episodes of The Naked Chef when I was younger, but in my mind, there are few kitchen activities more satisfying than giving a handful of aromatic herbs and spices a good pounding in a large, heavy mortar. Handmade pesto is great and whole-toasted spices don’t last a second in the bowl of a nice granite model, but for me, it’s in the act of making Thai curry paste that Iget the most out of one of my simplest kitchen tools.
Making curry paste the authentic way is a tactile and fragrant experience. In fact, things oftentimes get so aromatic that Lauren practically has to lock herself in our bedroom to avoid the pungent odor of toasted shrimp paste – an essential component of true Thai curry. Here I’ve included a recipe for a paste to create one of my all-time favorite curries: panang. Citrus notes dominate due to the heavy use of lime zest, lime leaves, coriander seeds and lemongrass.
While some of the key ingredients might be hard to track down and the overall process requires a fair amount of prep, as Victor Sodsook points out in his cookbook, True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking, curry pastes are “like money in the bank.” An hour of hard work will pay off with intense, complex flavor in future dishes. Couple this with the fact that many pastes last weeks in the refrigerator and several months in the freezer, and you have a culinary resource that lends completed dishes a taste that will seem like it’s taken hours to build.
Check back tomorrow for recipe that puts this amazing paste to good use; Panang Beef Curry.

PANANG CURRY PASTE

From True Thai: The Modern Art of Thai Cooking by Victor Sodsook
This recipe employs the use of both a mortar and pestle as well as a food processor in the assembly of the curry paste. The mortar breaks down the tough fibers of the lemongrass, galangal and lime leaves, releasing valuable oils and aromas that would be lost if the food processor was used exclusively. If you’ve never used shrimp paste before, be warned, it’s pretty pungent stuff. I like to finely slice or scrape the shrimp paste from it’s container or block and then pack it into a tablespoon measurement for accurate proportioning.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 package (3 ounces) dried red New Mexico chilies
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon whole coriander seed
• 2 tablespoons shrimp paste wrapped neatly in a double layer of aluminum foil
• Zest of 2 fresh Kaffir limes or 1 small domestic lime
• 10 (5 pairs) fresh Kaffir lime leaves or 1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
• 2 1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, including stems
• 1 large stalk lemon grass, tough outer leaves discarded, lower stalk trimmed to 3 inches and finely sliced
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped, peeled galangal or common ginger
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped garlic
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped shallots

METHOD:

1. Stem the chilies, discarding most of the seeds and removing the dry, tough ribs. Cut or tear the chilies into 1-inch pieces and put them in a bowl. Cover the chilies with warm water to cover and let soak for 20-30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, lightly toast the coriander seeds in a small skillet set over medium heat until aromatic, about 3-5 minutes. Shake the pan frequently to prevent burning. Transfer the toasted coriander to a small bowl to cool and set aside.
3. Set the skillet back over medium heat and add the foil-wrapped shrimp paste. Cook, turning the packed over once or twice until aromatic, about 5 minutes. Remove the packet from the skillet and set aside to cool.
4. Put the toasted coriander in a large, heavy mortar and pestle and grind to a fine powder. Transfer the ground coriander to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.
5. If using fresh lime leaves, stack them and cut them into fine slivers with a sharp knife. Combine the lime zest, slivered lime leaves, cilantro, lemongrass, and ginger in the mortar and pound for a minute to break down the fibers. Transfer the crushed mixture to the food processor.
6. Pound the garlic and shallots in the mortar until just crushed and transfer them to the food processor.
7. Unwrap the shrimp paste and add it to the food processor.
8. Drain the chilies from their soaking liquid, reserving about 1/2 cup of the water. Add the chilies to the food processor.
9. Pulse the ingredients to combine, process the mixture until a rich, moist paste forms, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved soaking liquid, if needed, to ease the grinding.
10. Store the finished panang curry paste in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 month, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Makes about 1 2/3 cups.

CHOCOLATE-DIPPED FLORENTINE SHORTBREADS

If there’s one thing I especially look forward to around the holidays it’s my Mom’s epic output of Christmas cookies.  From Mexican wedding cakes and raspberry-filled linzer cookies to chewy molasses spice cookies and our family favorite, Hello Dolly bars, no cookie style is left unrepresented….or so I thought.  I wouldn’t even know this type of cookie existed if it wasn’t for Lauren being struck by inspiration while thumbing through the pages of an old Christmas issue of Food and Wine Magazine.  I’m still not quite sure what it was, but something called out to her about these Chocolate-Dipped Florentine Shortbreads.

With a thin, buttery layer of shortbread and a chewy, orange and almond caramel topping, these cookies are simultaneously crispy and chewy — a truly outstanding textural contrast.  If that wasn’t enough, each cookie is then partially dipped in a thick jacket of melted bittersweet chocolate, serving as the perfect foil for the candied orange rind and zest running throughout the sticky topping.
Having tried the festive cookie, I’m afraid I’ve been ruined. I just don’t know how any cookie platter will be complete this Christmas without the inclusion of these confectionery gems.  Give them a try; you won’t be disappointed.

CHOCOLATE-DIPPED FLORENTINE SHORTBREADS

From Pierre Hermé, Food and Wine Magazine, December Issue, 2002
These aren’t the easiest cookies in the world to make, but they are by no means too difficult for the average baker.  Be sure to follow each step carefully and pay attention to the temperature of your caramel sauce when making the topping.  It is important to note that the shortbread dough will not look like traditional cookie dough in the slightest.  Instead, be prepared to work with a very dry, floury mixture.  It won’t look like it wants to hold together at first, but once pressed into the bottom of the prepared baking sheet and baked, the dough transforms into a crisp, buttery layer that is simply phenomenal.  Finally, be certain to use bittersweet chocolate when it comes time to dip the shortbreads.  Milk chocolate won’t provide the same compliment to the candied orange and counterbalance needed for the sweet, caramel topping.

INGREDIENTS:

For the Shortbread:

• 1 1/2 sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice and chilled
• 6 tablespoons sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  

For the Topping:

• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Finely grated zest of 1 orange
• 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
• 1/3 cup water
• 1/2 cup chestnut or wildflower honey
• 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter
• 3 cups sliced, blanched almonds (3/4 pound)
• 2/3 cup finely diced candied orange rind (1/4 pound)
• 3/4 pound bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

METHOD:

1. Make the Pastry: Preheat the oven to 350°.  Butter the bottom and sides of an 11-by-17-inch rimmed baking sheet.  Line the bottom with parchment paper, leaving about 1 inch overhanging at the short ends.  Butter the parchment.
2. In a food processor, pulse the diced butter with the sugar and the salt 6 times.  Add the flour and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal.  Spread the crumbs on the baking sheet and press them into a thin, even layer with floured hands.  Prick the dough all over with a fork.  Refrigerate for 10 minutes, or until firm.  Bake in  the middle of the oven for 15 minutes, or until lightly browned.  Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack.  Increase the oven temperature to 425°.
3. Meanwhile Make the Topping: In a small saucepan, heat the cream with the orange zest over moderate heat just until bubbles appear around the edge, about 5 minutes.  In a heavy medium saucepan, combine the sugar with the corn syrup and water and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, stirring just until the sugar dissolves.  Cook the syrup over moderately high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until a medium amber caramel forms, about 5 minutes.  Remove from the heat.  Add the honey, the infused cream and the butter and stir until the butter melts.  Cook the caramel topping over moderately high heat until a candy thermometer registers 255°, about 4 minutes.  Stir in the almonds and candied orange rind and immediately spread the caramel over the pastry with a wooden spoon.
4. Return the baking sheet to the oven and bake the pastry for 10 minutes, or until the top is bubbling.  Transfer the baking sheet to a rack and let cool for 30 minutes.
5. Run a knife around the edge of the baking sheet to loosen the pastry and slide the parchment paper onto a work surface.  Using a sharp, heavy knife, cut the pastry into 2 1/2-inch-by-3-inch rectangles.  Cut each rectangle diagonally in half.
6. Line 2 large baking sheets with wax paper.  Melt two-thirds of the chocolate in a bowl in the microwave for about a minute or a double-boiler.  Add the remaining chocolate and stir until completely melted.  Dip 1 corner of each cookie into the chocolate and transfer it to the prepared baking sheets.  Refrigerate until the chocolate is just set, about 5 minutes.

The cookies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 2 months.
Makes about 2 dozen large cookies, or 4 dozen small

RESTORATIVE ASIAN SOUP

I don’t quite know how it happened, but somehow I got a cold in the middle of August. While San Francisco isn’t exactly known for it’s sweltering summers, I found myself craving something that would warm me to the core and nourish me at the same time. Recalling the virtues of chicken noodle soup, I figured I would try my hand at creating a chinese-style broth infused with the healing qualities of garlic and ginger. So, with a batch of homemade chicken stock in the freezer and a handful of asian ingredients and cooking techniques, I set out to create a soup that would have me feeling healthy again in no time.
Drawing inspiration from Barbara Tropp’s iconic, China Moon Cookbook, I began by making a simple “infusion” that would serve as the backbone of my soup. The long, slow simmering of copious amounts of roasted garlic and other aromatics imbue the broth with a rich and savory quality while the basil stems thrown in during the last fifteen minutes of simmering add a beautiful floral finish. Once infused, the broth is good enough to eat by itself, but I was feeling a bit adventurous, and wanted to add some protein and vitamins. Using a technique called “velveting,” the marinated chicken breast is only partially cooked in simmering water before it is drained and finished in the soup. The pieces end up being juicy, extremely tender and pleasantly salty. Finished with some shiitake mushrooms, baby bok choy, spinach and a good pinch of Szechwan pepper-salt, I had a soup that is as delicious as it is healthy.

Restorative Asian Soup

Recipe and techniques adapted from Barbara Tropp’s, China Moon Cookbook
As suggested by Ms. Tropp, be patient while infusing the oil with the aromatics before adding the chicken stock. It is during this step that the bulk of the flavor for the broth is developed; it should not be rushed. When velveting the chicken, have another pot of water on the stove bubbling away at a strong simmer before water blanching the pieces. Marinating the chicken for a couple of hours is great, but overnight will yield especially flavorful and tender results.

INGREDIENTS

For the Broth Infusion

• 1 1/2 large, rock-hard heads of garlic, wrapped in tin foil and roasted at 375°F for 30-40 minutes
• 1 tablespoon corn or peanut oil
• 1/2 a small onion, thinly sliced
• 1/2 small green serrano chili
• 4 quarter-size coins of fresh ginger, smashed
• 6 cups of unsalted chicken broth, preferably homemade
• 1/2 stalk fresh lemongrass or small handful of basil stems
• Kosher salt
• Roasted Szechwan pepper-salt (recipe follows)
• 2 small baby bok choy, sliced in quarters
• 3/4 cup shitake mushrooms, sliced
• 1 large handful of baby spinach leaves

For the Velvet Marinated Chicken

• 1 large egg white
• 1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 3/4 lb. fresh chicken breast, skinned, boned and cut into strips 1 x 1/4 inch thick slices

METHOD

1. Prepare the chicken: Combine the marinade ingredients in a bowl and toss to coat the chicken. Allow at least two hours or overnight to marinate.
2. Prepare the infusion: Add the oil to the bottom of a non-aluminum, heavy stockpot and swirl to glaze the bottom of the pot. Heat over low heat until a slice of onion sizzles gently upon contact with the oil. Add the onion slices, chili, ginger and roasted garlic, stirring to combine. Cover the pot and, keeping the heat very low, sweat the vegetables until the onion turns translucent and the mixture is soupy, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent the vegetables from sticking to the bottom of the pot. This sweating step is crucial to the success of the flavors, so don’t rush it.
3. Add the chicken stock, cover the pot, and raise the heat to moderate. Bring the mixture to a near boil and adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer for 1 hour. Add the lemongrass or basil stems during the last 15 minutes.
4. Remove the pot from heat. Let the infusion steep, uncovered and undisturbed, for 1 hour.
5. Strain the infusion through a fine-mesh sieve lined with layers of dampened cheesecloth and spoon off any excess oil lingering on the surface.
6. Season the infusion with enough kosher salt to bring out the garlic flavor, then end with roasted pepper-salt to taste.
7. Just prior to serving, place a small saucepan of water to simmer. Add the chicken pieces stir until the outside is white, about 30 to 40 seconds. Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon and set aside.
8. Meanwhile, add the vegetables to the hot broth. Allow to simmer until vegetables are tender. Add the partially cooked chicken and cook through, about five minutes.

Makes two large bowls

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Throw grated cheddar cheese, sour cream, sliced green onions, and cilantro over a bowl of Stagg Chili and you have a satisfying bowl of chili.  Throw those same condiments over a warm bowl of this hearty lamb and chorizo chili, and you have an epic winter meal.  But I’ll warn you, this chili isn’t for the faint of heart.  This is some rich, earthy fare the likes of which are seldom explored by the typical American diner.  In my mind, I believe this is chili the way chili was always meant to taste.
Thick, heavily spiced and slightly gamey, this is cold weather, stick-to-your-ribs food at it best, making it not only great for the winter season, but also perfect Super Bowl grub if you’re looking to feed a group with a big appetite. I’d go so far as to call this real man food, if my girlfriend weren’t so quick to remind me that women love chili, too.
Garnishes are key here; they lighten the rich flavors while enhancing the chili’s meatiness, so set out a spread of shredded cheese, chopped onion, cilantro and sour cream and let your guests go nuts.

LAMB AND CHORIZO CHILI

Adapted from Bon Appétit
Use fresh, Mexican chorizo  and not the dry-cured Spanish variety in this recipe.  After sautéing and draining the chorizo, be sure to return the fat (drippings) to the pan from the top of any juices that might have collected.  This flavorful, bright red fat will be the medium in which you will fry your aromatics.  This chili can be made as far as three days in advance of service and will definitely benefit from an overnight “curing” in the refrigerator after it’s been simmered.  When reheating, place the chili in a medium saucepan and bring back to a bare simmer, covered, and stirring often over low heat.  Adjust with more stock or water if the chili seems dry and check again for seasoning. In fact, because not all chorizo sausage is seasoned the same way, taste throughout the cooking process and tailor the chili to your own taste.

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 1/4 cups chicken broth
• 3 ounces dried ancho chilies (about 5 large), stemmed, seeded, torn into pieces
• 1 tsp. cayenne pepper
• 1 1/2 lbs pork chroizo, casings removed
• 2 cups red onion, coarsely chopped
• 10 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano
• 1 tablespoon cumin
• 1 1/2 lbs ground lamb
• 1 can (15-ounces) canned pinto beans, rinsed and drained
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Grated cheddar or jack cheese
• Thinly sliced green onions
• Sour cream or Mexican crema
• Cilantro leaves
• Pickled jalapenos, diced

METHOD:

1. Combine first three ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over medium heat until chilies soften, about 12 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender, in batches if need be.  Strain the chile mixture through a fine mesh sieve, pressing on the solids, and set aside.
2. Meanwhile, cook chorizo in a large pot over medium-high heat until drippings come to a simmer. Transfer to a strainer set over a bowl and let drain for 10 minutes.
3. Return 1/4 cup of the chorizo drippings to the same pot and heat over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, oregano and cumin and saute until onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes.
4. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper and add to the pot. Sauté just until the lamb is no longer pink on the outside. Add chili puree and drained chorizo. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to a simmer and allow to cook for 1 hour.
5. Add drained pinto beans and simmer uncovered until liquid thickens, about 15 minutes. Season well with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with grated cheddar, sour cream, green onions, cilantro and diced pickled jalapenos as desired.

Makes 6 to 8 servings, depending on the appetite of your crowd