Sunday, September 4, 2011

PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO


Mention potatoes on pizza and you’ll get one of two responses. From the folks who’ve tried it, you can expect an enthusiastic thumbs up. From everyonce else: a resounding “huh?” That’s the thing about pizza with potato – it sounds strange, until you try it, and then you just get it.
Tasting the ‘You Say Potato’ slice for the first time at Escape from New York Pizza on Haight Street in San Francisco was this moment for me.  Still in high school at the time, far out pizza toppings went about far as bacon and clams as in my Dad’s favorite New Haven-style pie from Pepe’s in New Haven, Connecticut.  A diehard pepperoni fan, I was blown away by the idea of putting a potato on a pizza.  Actually I probably wouldn’t have tried it had my vegetarian buddy not touted it as being “the best” slice of pizza he’d ever eaten.  He was right. Tender yet toothsome potatoes and savory whole-roasted garlic cloves come together in a one of a kind pesto pizza experience.
Over a decade later, I finally got around to trying it at home.  Don’t wait as long as I did; add this unbeatable flavor combination to your pizza-making repertoire now.  Then when someone mentions potatoes on a pizza, you’ll know.

PESTO PIZZA WITH ROASTED GARLIC & POTATO

Inspired by the You Say Potato Slice at Escape from New York Pizza, San Francisco

As the addition of potatoes are what really sets this pizza apart, it is important to make sure they are cooked and seasoned properly before they go on top of the pie.  To ensure that the potatoes are cooked all the way through when the pizza comes out of the oven, I blanch them in boiling water, just until they lose their crunch.  After draining them off, toss them them with a bit of leftover oil from the roasted garlic, sprinkle with herbs and a bit of salt and they’ll be ready to shine. By the way, making this a second time I added in crumbled bacon I had lying around and it was excellent; I highly recommend it to my pork-loving comrades.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
  • About 1 cup homemade pesto (or store-bought)
  • 2-3 cups grated mozzarella/provolone cheese
  • 1 cup roasted or confit garlic cloves (recipe below)
  • 4 red skinned potatoes, very thinly sliced
  • 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
  • Olive oil
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Crushed red pepper flakes

METHOD:

  1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half an hour before baking pizzas.
  2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, blanch the potato slices in boiling water until just cooked through, anywhere between 1 – 2 minutes.  Drain and allow to cool slightly before drying the slices with paper towels and coating them with a touch of olive oil, a pinch of Italian seasoning and kosher salt.
  4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
  5. Using a large spoon, spread an even layer of the pesto onto the dough and carefully spread it to within 1/2-inch of the edge, being careful to leave a sauce free edge.  Top with an even layer of the grated mozzarella/provolone cheese followed by slices of parboiled potatoes and roasted garlic cloves.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella, season with salt to taste and a pinch of red pepper flakes.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of olive oil (or leftover garlic) oil to promote browning.
  6. Carefully slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling and just beginning to brown, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove the pizza from the oven and allow it to rest for a few minutes before slicing.
Makes enough for 2 pizzas

Roasted or Confit Garlic

In this recipe I like to confit the garlic cloves as opposed to roast them whole in an effort maintain the integrity of the garlic.  If you have some roasted garlic cloves laying around or prefer to roast a head of garlic wrapped in foil, feel free to do that instead.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 or 2 head of garlic, broken down into individual cloves and peeled
  • Olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning
  • Kosher salt

METHOD:

  1. Preheat the oven to 300.  Add the peeled garlic cloves to a small saucepan and pour in olive oil until just barely covered.  Add a pinch of Italian seasoning and Kosher salt and roast in the oven for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until golden brown and soft.  Remove the saucepan from the oven and allow the garlic confit to cool.  Remove garlic cloves and store infused oil in the fridge for up to a week for another dishes.

Thursday, September 1, 2011

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP

Delicious, homemade tomato soup
I usually do the cooking in my house, but on a recent trip to the farmers market, my girlfriend stumbled upon a vendor selling what looked to be the last of this season’s tomatoes and was instantly inspired to make this soup. A little overripe, she decided that the still beautiful specimens would taste especially good after roasting in the oven to concentrate their flavor.  Now, I myself am not the biggest tomato soup fan, but I was blown away at how delicious and flavorful the end product became. Somewhere between a tomato bisque and an earthy, slow-cooked tomato sauce, this soup had me sopping up the leftovers from the pot with a piece of toasted sourdough. Perfectly seasoned and especially comforting on a foggy San Francisco evening, my place in the kitchen might be in jeopardy if my girlfriend continues to turn out such satisfying fare.


ROASTED TOMATO SOUP

When roasting the tomatoes and bell peppers keep in mind that you want them to both soften and take on a bit of color. Once the tomatoes were in the pot, Lauren used a spatula to scrape in the residual carmelized bits from the sheet pan and added that as well. To make this more refined, just strain it through a fine mesh sieve before serving.

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 lb. ripe tomatoes, halved or quartered depending on the size
  • 2 large red bell peppers, halved and seeded
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1 tsp. herbes de provence
  • 1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes
  • 3 to 4 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock or water
  • 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
  • salt & pepper

METHOD

  1. Preheat over to 375°.
  2. Coat the tomatoes and bell peppers in a drizzle of olive oil and a hefty pinch of salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes to an hour. Remove from the oven and give the bell peppers a rough chop.
  3. Heat 2 tbsp. of olive oil in a small pot. When hot, add the onions and saute over medium heat until golden. Add a pinch of salt, the garlic, the herbes de provence, and the pepper flakes. Stir until fragrant.
  4. Using a spatula lift the soft tomatoes from the sheet and add to the onion mixture. Toss in the bell pepper and cook for a minute or two with the tomatoes and onions.
  5. Pour in the chicken stock. You’ll want just enough to cover the tomatoes and onions. Bring to simmer and cook for 15 minutes.
  6. Once the soup as come together use an immersion blender to blend the soup to your desired consistency. If necessary, feel free to add more chicken stock.
  7. Taste for salt and pepper and allow to simmer 5 more minutes.
  8. Serve with fresh basil and a drizzle of crème fraÎche or sour cream.
serves 2

Saturday, August 27, 2011

THAI CHICKEN PIZZA

Thai Chicken Pizza
When I told everybody I was making a barbecue chicken pizza for my website, people asked me why I wasn’t making Thai chicken pizza instead.  Truthfully, I didn’t realize it was such a beloved item on the California Pizza Kitchen menu.  I’ve always loved them — in fact, I almost ate my weight in the frozen version while I was in college — but I never realized that other people shared my same propensity.  For me (and apparently pretty much everyone else), there is something undeniable about the combination of aromatic peanut sauce, green onions and carrots, all  piled high on a chewy crust and topped with cheese. Not at all Italian, totally un-Thai, just “American” grub at its most adaptive.
The best part of making this particular pizza at home is you can get as creative as you want. I left off the usual bean sprouts, but you could certainly add them for extra crunch. And no need to break out the crushed red pepper flakes.  Here I use sriracha chili sauce to add a little bite, but of course, if spicy’s not your thing, feel free to leave it off. A sprinkling of freshly chopped Thai basil in addition to or in lieu of the cilantro (for those cilantro-haters out there) would be a perfect compliment to the sweet, salty flavor of the peanut sauce. No matter how you top it, if you like peanut sauce, you’ll love this pizza. Plus, no tipping necessary when you’re cooking out of your own kitchen.

THAI CHICKEN PIZZA

When assembling this pizza, feel free to add as little or as much of the toppings as you want, but keep in mind that a pizza that is too heavily loaded with ingredients can end up cooking unevenly and may result in a messy final pie.  The balance of flavors is key, not the amount you can fit on the dough.  If you want even more crunch in your finished pizza, consider adding the carrots after baking as opposed to before.  I use Thai marinated grilled chicken breasts in this recipe for added authenticity, but you should feel free to use store-bought rotisserie chicken if you’re short on time — the flavorful peanut sauce should provide more than enough flavor.  I’ve said it before, but if you’re serious about making pizza at home and still don’t have a pizza stone, it should be at the top of your priority list.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 24 ounces homemade or store-bought pizza dough, divided
  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dusting
  • About 1 1/4 cups homemade Thai peanut sauce (or store-bought)
  • 1 cup grated mozzarella cheese
  • 1 cup cooked grilled Thai chicken, diced (recipe below)
  • 4 green onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 large carrot, julienne or coarsely grated
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1/4 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
  • 1/4 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped
  • Sriracha chili sauce for garnish (optional)

METHOD:

  1. Place a pizza stone in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 500°.  Allow the stone to heat for at least half and hour before baking pizzas.
  2. Allow the pizza dough to come to room temperature.  On a lightly-floured work surface, form the dough into two large balls, collecting the sides and tucking them under to create a smooth outer surface.  Cover the dough with a damp towel and allow to rest for at least 20 minutes.
  3. Meanwhile, warm the peanut sauce in a saucepan set over low heat until heated through and pourable.
  4. Generously dust a wooden peel or the back of a sheet pan with flour or cornmeal. With lightly-floured hands, press the dough with your fingertips to form a flattened disk.  Lift the dough up and use the back of your knuckles to stretch and thin-out the dough into a circle with a diameter of 12-inches. Be careful to preserve the edge of the dough if you want a light, chewy crust. Carefully position the stretched dough onto the prepared peel or baking sheet.
  5. Using a ladle, spoon an even layer of the peanut sauce onto the dough and carefully spread it close to the border being careful to leave a 1/2-inch edge.  Top with an even layer of mozzarella cheese followed by pieces of the diced Thai chicken, green onions and carrots.  Top with a light sprinkling of a bit more mozzarella.  Lightly brush the exposed crust with a bit of the vegetable oil to promote browning.
  6. Slide the pizza onto the preheated stone and bake until the crust is crisped and golden and the cheese is bubbling, about 6-7 minutes.  Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the roasted peanuts,  freshly chopped cilantro leaves and sriracha. Serve immediately.
Makes 2 Pizzas

BANGKOK-STYLE GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST

This is a fantastic coconut milk marinade for chicken.  It works just as well with whole, butterflied chickens as well as bone-in, skin-on pieces.  Here I use the marinade on boneless, skinless breasts.  If you don’t have an outdoor grill or grill pan, feel free to roast the breasts in a 425° oven.  You won’t be able to develop as much caramelization, but the chicken will still be quite flavorful.  The marinade contains a bit of sugar, so monitor your heat closely and watch for burning.
INGREDIENTS:
  • 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
  • 7 ounces (1/2 can) coconut milk
  • 1 tablespoon curry powder
  • 1 tablespoon fish sauce
  • 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  • 1/4 cup loosely packed chopped cilantro, including stems
  • 1 tablespoon brown sugar
  • 3/4 teaspoon white pepper
METHOD:
  1. Place the chicken breasts on a cutting board and lightly score each side in a crosshatch pattern with a sharp knife to allow the marinade to penetrate.
  2. Combine the coconut milk, curry powder, fish sauce, garlic, cilantro, sugar and pepper in a bowl.  Stir well and until sugar has dissolved and marinade is smooth.  Place the chicken breasts in a resealable plastic bag and pour the marinade in on top.  Seal the bag and massage the marinade into the meat to ensure an even coating.  Refrigerate the chicken and leave it to marinate for at least 3 hours or as long as overnight.
  3. Prepare a charcoal grill for direct heat grilling over medium-low heat or preheat a grill pan over medium-low heat.  Place the chicken on the grill and cook, moving the chicken if any flare-ups occur, until slightly charred in spots and cooked through to an internal temperature of 160°, about 7-8 minutes per side.
  4. Remove the chicken from the grill and transfer to a platter. Allow the meat to rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing.

Wednesday, August 17, 2011

BANH MI SANDWICH


If you haven’t tried Vietnamese banh mi by now, you’ve been missing out on a truly remarkable sandwich. At once exotic, but at the same time decidedly familiar, these guys are unlike anything in the American lunchtime lineup.  No cheese or mustard here, just the perfect marriage of sour, salty and savory Vietnamese flavors on a sweet, light-as-air, French baguette all harmoniously coming together in one killer snack.
Topped with crunchy pickled carrots and daikon, cool sliced cucumber, aromatic cilantro and spicy chilies, a good banh mi is a melange of flavors and textures. Not unlike a BLT, banh mi are salty, crunchy and juicy with a nice counterpoint of warm meats. Packed with savory roast pork or my version with grilled five-spice chicken shown above, the real beauty of this sandwich is its variety of delicious proteins.  From grilled lemongrass beef or sardine, to the deli combo loaded with roast pork, mortadella and paté there are plenty of options out there to satisfy any hankering. Here in San Francisco, Saigon Sandwich on Larkin Street is home to some of the finest banh mi around.  At $3.50 apiece, I defy you to find a better quality, more filling sandwich for cheaper anywhere in the city.  This is the Asian sandwich.

Banh Mi Sandwich

When making a sandwich of this caliber, it’s important that all of the ingredients be of the highest quality and freshness that you can find.  Start out by looking for a nice, light and airy french baguette.  The last thing you want here is a chewy, razor sharp crust getting in the way of all those delicious, delicate flavors within.  I’ve gone with 5-spice chicken for this particular build, but feel free to use grilled lemongrass beef, Vietnamese roast pork, Chinese-style char siu, påté, or even your favorite deli meat.  One of my favorite components of a good banh mi is the sharp, bright heat of a few jalapeño rings.  If that kinda heat isn’t your thing, consider drizzling in sriracha to give your sandwich a bit of bite.  No matter what you do, definitely take the time to make the pickled daikon and carrots from the recipe listed below.  A banh mi really isn’t a banh mi without them.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 2 8-inch long pieces of a light, airy french baguette
  • Mayonnaise or softened butter
  • Soy Sauce or Maggi Seasoning for drizzling
  • 2-3 cups grilled, sliced, boneless-skinless, five spice chicken thighs
  • 4-6 thin slices English cucumber, seeded
  • Pickled Daikon and Carrots (Recipe Below)
  • 6 cilantro sprigs
  • Jalapeño, thinly sliced
  • Sriracha Chili Sauce (Optional)

METHOD:

  1. Slice each piece of baguette in half horizontally, stopping before you cut all the way through to leave a hinge.  Lightly toast the baguette pieces in the oven until just barely crusty and set aside to cool for a moment.
  2. Generously slather the inside of each baguette with mayonnaise or softened butter and sprinkle with a few dashes of soy sauce or Maggi seasoning.
  3. Layer in warm slices of grilled five-spice chicken and top with 1/3 cup pickled daikon/carrots, cucumber, cilantro and a few slices of jalapeño.
  4. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes enough for 2 sandwiches

Pickled Daikon

from Andrea Nguyen’s, Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors

Be warned, these guys can positively reek.  Don’t let the smell put you off as they have a wonderful sweet, sour quality and add the perfect, necessary crunch to the sandwich. For a full primer on how to pick out daikon and craft the flavor to suit your own taste, check out Andrea’s thorough primer on do chua here.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1 large carrot, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
  • 1 pound daikons, each no larger than 2 inches in diameter, peeled and cut into thick matchsticks
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons plus 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1  1/4 cups distilled white vinegar
  • 1 cup lukewarm water

METHOD:

  1. Place the carrot and daikons in a bowl and sprinkle with the salt and 2 teaspoons of the sugar. Use your hands to knead the vegetables for about 3 minutes, expelling the water from them. They will soften and liquid will pool at the bottom of the bowl. Stop kneading when you can bend a piece of daikon so that the ends touch but the daikon does not break. The vegetables should have lost about one-fourth of their volume. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water, then press gently to expel extra water. Return the vegetables to the bowl if you plan to eat them soon, or transfer them to a 1-quart jar for longer storage.
  2. To make the brine, in a bowl, combine the 1/2 cup sugar, the vinegar, and the water and stir to dissolve the sugar. Pour over the vegetables. The brine should cover the vegetables. Let the vegetables marinate in the brine for at least 1 hour before eating. They will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks. Beyond that point, they get tired.

Tuesday, August 9, 2011

PECAN HONEY STICKY BUNS

Pecan Honey Sticky Buns 1
To me, there’s no item in the pastry case sexier than the sticky bun.  Cloaked in a caramel and studded with candied pecans, the cinnamon bun seems downright dowdy when compared with these breakfast beauties.  Like I said in my post for Ham and Cheese Breakfast Sandwiches, I’m not big on sweet starts to my morning.  But there is something I find irresistible about the chewy-crisp texture and sweet cinnamon aroma of a good sticky bun.  And man are these things sweet!
The perfect treat for a large breakfast gathering, few can turn down such a stunning and decadent offering.  With Christmas just around the corner, I can’t imagine a more ideal match than a cup of coffee and one of these warm-from-the-oven buns while opening up presents by the tree.

PECAN HONEY STICKY BUNS

From Baking: From My Home to Yours, by Dorie Greenspan
Thanks to the expert tutelage of Dorie Greenspan, I didn’t find making brioche dough very difficult at all.  It is indeed a time-consuming process and requires a period of overnight resting, but once you have the hard part out of the way, you’ll be left with enough dough to make two large batches of sticky buns. The dough freezes very well and can even be filled, rolled and stored in the freezer for a future occasion.  Rolling out the dough can be a bit difficult due to its sticky nature, so make sure to work with it on a well-floured surface.  I found that a tightly rolled log produces a more picturesque bun with a consistent texture, so don’t forget to take your time during this seemingly inconsequential step.  Finally, this recipe can be halved very easily.  Simply reduce the glaze by half and bake the buns in a smaller pan.  The results are just as delicious.

GOLDEN BRIOCHE DOUGH

Ingredients:
  • 2 packets active dry yeast
  • 1/3 cup barely warm water
  • 1/3 cup barely warm milk
  • 3 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
  • 2 tsp. salt
  • 3 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 3 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature but still slightly firm
Method:
  1. Put the yeast, water and milk in the bowl of a stand mixer and, using a wooden spoon, stir until the yeast is dissolved. Add the flour and salt, and fit the mixture with the dough hook, if you have one. Toss a towel over the mixer to avoid being showered in flour. Turn the mixer on and off in a few short pulses, just to dampen the flour, then remove the towel, increase the mixer speed to medium-high just until the flour is moistened. You should have a fairly dry, shaggy mass.
  2. Scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl with a rubber spatula, set the mixer to low and add the eggs, followed by the sugar. Increase the mixer speed to medium and beat for about 3 minutes, until the dough forms a ball. Reduce the speed to low and add the butter in 2-tablespoon size chunks, beating until each piece is almost incorporated before adding the next. You’ll have a dough that is very soft, almost like a batter. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue to beat until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl, about 10 minutes.
  3. Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature until nearly doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes.
  4. Deflate the dough by lifting it up around the edges and letting it fall with a slap into the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator. Slap the dough down in the bowl every 30 minutes until it stops rising, about 2 hours, then leave the covered dough in the refrigerator to chill overnight.
  5. At this point, you’ll have two loaves worth of dough. Split the dough in two. Set aside one piece for the buns and either freeze the other for another time or bake it in a loaf pan. Butter and flour the loaf pan. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and roll each piece into a log about 3 1/2 inches long. Arrange the logs crosswise in the bottom of the pan. Cover the pan lightly with wax paper and leave the loaf at room temperature until the dough almost fills the pans, 1 to 2 hours. Brush tops with a mixture of egg and 1 tbsp. water. Bake in a 400 degree oven for 30 to 35 minutes.
PECAN HONEY STICKY BUNS
Ingredients:

For the glaze:
  • 1 cup light brown sugar, packed
  • 1 stick unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
  • 1/4 cup honey
  • 1 1/2 cups pecans (whole or pieces)
For the filling:
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 3 tbsp. light brown sugar, packed
  • 1 tbsp. ground cinnamon
  • 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature
Method:
  1. Generously butter a 9 x 13 inch banking pan.
  2. To make the glaze: In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the brown sugar, butter and honey to a boil over medium-low heat, stirring frequently to dissolve the sugar. Pour the glaze into the buttered pan, evening it out as best you can by tilting the pan or spreading the glaze with a heatproof spatula. Sprinkle the pecans over it.
  3. To make the filling: Mix the sugars and cinnamon together in a bowl. If necessary, in another bowl, work the butter with a spatula until it is soft, smooth and spreadable.
  4. To shape the buns: On a flour-dusted work surface, roll the chilled dough into a 16-inch square. Using your fingers or a pastry brush, spread the softened butter over the dough. Sprinkle the dough with the cinnamon sugar, leaving a 1-inch strip bare on the side farthest from you. Starting with the side nearest you, roll the dough into a cylinder, keeping the roll as tight as you can. (At this point you can wrap the dough and freeze it for up to 2 months.) With a chef’s knife, using a gentle sawing motions, trim just a tiny bit from the ends of the roll if they’re very ragged, then cut the log into 1-inch buns. Fit the buns into the pan cut side down, leaving some space between them.
  5. Lightly cover the pan with a piece of wax paper and set the pan in a warm place until the buns have doubled in volume, about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
  6. When the buns have almost fully risen, preheat the oven the 375 degrees.
  7. Remove the sheet of wax paper and put the pan on a baking sheet. Bake the sticky buns for about 30 minutes, or until they are puffed and golden; the glaze will bubble.
  8. Pull the pan from the oven. The sticky buns must be unmolded minutes after they come out of the oven. Turn out onto a platter or lined baking sheet.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

SPINACH-GORGONZOLA PASTA


I should start by saying that this dish is rich — certainly not for those still trying to stick to their New Years resolution.  While cream sauced pasta might always be an off-limit item for calorie counters, it’s the Gorgonzola, ricotta and Parmesan cheese that makes this dish especially decadent and delicious.  It’s this same indulgent quality that has people lined up around the block at Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria, a neighborhood fixture in a small beach town called Capitola, a few miles south of Santa Cruz in Northern California.

I visited Gayle’s for the first time in college on an adventure to find a solid, quality meal and a break from the less-than inspiring food of the dining hall.  Craving something comforting more than anything, I felt right at home in front of their massive rotisserie and deli case packed with roasted chickens, slow barbecued ribs, potato salad and sandwiches.  The place was bustling with business and food was flying out the door but nothing seemed to be selling faster than the humble looking spinach-gorgonzola pasta.  As I remember it, not one customer left without ordering some.  So, like any smart food explorer, I did as the locals did and took some to-go.  After a few bites, it was obvious what all fuss was about.
Having moved away from Santa Cruz, I’m no longer able to take part in what became a near-weekly trip to Gayle’s for some of their signature pasta.  So feeling especially deprived of late, I searched for the restaurant online and was lucky enough to find that they’ve been giving out the recipe to their customers for years.  After making the dish at home this past weekend, I’m happy to report that it’s as soul-satisfying as I remember it.

SPINACH-GORGONZOLA PASTA

From Gayle’s Bakery & Rosticceria, Capitola, California
This pasta gets its rich flavor from a thick and creamy Gorgonzola cream sauce.  Making the béchamel sauce is simple, but make sure you taste the sauce for seasoning before you cool it to ensure that the tangy flavor of the cheese really shines.  Seasoning is also important when it comes to boiling the pasta.  Make sure to do so in a very large pot of highly salted water to ensure that the shells end up well-seasoned.  It is of the utmost importance that you only cook the pasta to the point of being very al dente.  I like to err on the side of underdone to ensure the pasta doesn’t fall apart after baking.  If shells aren’t your thing, bow tie pasta would be a great substitute in this recipe.  For an outstanding and authentic Italian twist, try substituting grilled or sauteed radicchio in place of the spinach for a pleasantly bitter accent to the cheesy sauce.  When it comes time to bake the pasta, it’s best to do so in a vessel that will allow the pasta to be fairly well covered with sauce as this will prevent it from drying out.  Finally, use as much or as little of the grated Parmesan as you would like to top the dish and give it a crusty brown top.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 4 cups of milk
  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 10 ounces Gorgonzola cheese
  • 4 pinches nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon pepper
  • 1 pound large pasta shells
  • 2 bunches fresh spinach, cleaned and dried, or 1 package frozen
  • 3/4 cup ricotta cheese, well-drained
  • 3 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
  • 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

METHOD:

  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, heat the milk until hot but not boiling.
  2. Meanwhile, combine flour and butter in another heavy saucepan. Stir over medium heat with a wooden spoon or whisk until the mixture has gently bubbled for 2 minutes, being careful not to brown the flour.
  3. Begin to add the hot milk to the flour mixture a little at a time while whisking vigorously. Continue to add the milk until it is fully incorporated. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 6 to 8 minutes. it will look like heavy cream. Crumble the cheese and add it to the hot béchamel sauce, whisking continuously until smooth. Add the nutmeg and pepper and stir. Remove form heat and let cool.
  4. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes, until al dente. Drain and set aside.
  5. If using fresh spinach, blanch it 1 to 2 minutes in a little boiling water. Drain it, let it cool, and squeeze all of the water out several times. if you are using frozen spinach, let it defrost in a sieve over a bowl for at least 3 hours. Squeeze all the water out by hand.
  6. Toss the pasta, Gorgonzola sauce, spinach, ricotta, and garlic in a large bowl until well combined. Taste and correct for salt and pepper.
  7. Place in a 12 X 17-inch casserole dish and top with the Parmesan. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the cheese browns a little. you may make this a day ahead, and before baking, refrigerate well covered.
Makes 6-8 Servings

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies
This peanut butter chocolate chip cookie recipe represents one of my Mom’s most frequently requested treats.  As an avid peanut butter cookie fan myself, I put in a request for a batch as often as I can get away with it.  In fact, these cookies have shown up in one iteration or another throughout my entire life.
In elementary school, each student was permitted to bring in some kind of confection to share with the class on their birthday.  Each year, much to the delight of my classmates, I would ask to have these peanut butter cookies with a Hershey kiss planted in the middle.  Over the years, my tastes have changed, and so too has this chameleon of a cookie dough base.  As time has gone by, these cookies have seen the inclusion of everything from toffee pieces to raisins and even rolled oats (one of my personal favorites).  Whatever form these guys take, rest assured that with a recipe this solid, you really can’t go wrong adding in any of your favorites.  These days my Mom likes to make them with chocolate chips and chopped peanuts — a classic combination that is top three all-time in my book.

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES

This cookie dough is an adaptation of a recipe that calls for the cookies to be made much smaller and then sandwiched around jelly or jam for a “peanut butter and jelly sandwich” effect.  Instead, we make the cookies larger and throw in everything from cashews to oatmeal in an effort to doctor up the outstanding dough base.  If you want an especially attractive final product, do what my Mom does and dip the back of a fork in flour before laying on the signature crosshatch pattern of all good peanut butter cookies.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup packed brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup butter or shortening
  • 1/2 cup peanut butter
  • 1 egg
  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose or whole wheat flour
  • 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon table salt
  • 1 cup chocolate chips
  • 1 cup chopped peanuts or cashews

METHOD:

  1. Preheat the oven to 375°.
  2. Cream the butter or shortening with both sugars until light and fluffy in a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment.
  3. Add in the egg along with the peanut butter and process until just incorporated.
  4. Sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt and add to the peanut butter mixture in the bowl with the mixer on low speed until just combined.
  5. Remove the mixing bowl from the electric mixer and gently fold in the chocolate chips and chopped peanuts.
  6. Shape the dough into 1 1/4-inch balls and place them 3-inches apart on an ungreased baking sheet. With the back of a fork dipped in flour, gently flatten each dough ball in a crisscross pattern.
  7. Bake until set but not hard, about 10-12 minutes.  Cool slightly before removing from cookie sheet.